Heavy handspun, handwoven (likely) linen, white; entirely handstitched with linen; square neckline, 'knee' length, elbow length sleeves. Neckline is the same front and back. Side 1 (front?) is cut of one width without any gore seams; Side 2 has left and right gores added to a width cut narrower so that one selvage remains. The gores extend up slightly beyond the arm seam. Each shoulder is made from a separate piece. The side seams and gore seams are butted even though they are not selvages. The stitching is splendid.Hypothetical procedure: She had one width- the front- from which she removed triangular gore pieces. A strip was cut from one side of the back so the back would be the right width once enlarged with the triangular gores. The rectangle removed thus was used for the shoulders, sleeves and gussets. Very little waste. After the sides and gores were stitched, the shoulders were added with attention to proper total length of chemise. Then the sleeve-gusset assembly was attached.