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Historic Costume | Fine and Decorative Arts

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Coat, Morning

Clothing/Dress/Costume

Men's morning or riding coat is speculated to be made of brown and white 2/2 twill S-twist singles, white warp, and brown weft which appears finer than the white so the white shows more and the twill is not steep. Very fine yarn with a curly disposition. Densely filled. Speculated to be made out of cashmere or merino wool. The uneven beat suggests hand weaving but the yarns are very even, fine, and lofty, well filled but not like broadcloth. Entirely hand-stitched. Double-breasted with medium wide notched lapels, collar, and revers covered to the button stand with quilted black silk Italian; front lapel and body padded lightly with brown cotton. 3 buttonholes of graded size on either side, but 5 buttons were sewn on each side. Opening designed to hang apart, in a flaring curved line to the side, then the skirt falls straight down the side front over the hip to the side of the leg at the knees, squared; the full skirt, on a slightly dropped waist, is a sort of hybrid of tails and frock skirt. 2 buttons in center back. Side pockets at the waistline with large flaps gathered on. Long narrow sleeves with 3-button plackets. Skirt front lined with dark brown cotton; no pockets in 'tails'. Sleeves lined with light brown cotton, and the back with brown cotton printed with tiny blue figures.

G2011.051

Bruce and Susan Greene Costume Collection

Adult, Male

Historic Costume

Coat

Male

Silk

Silk twill

Cashmere

Wool

Cotton

Gray

1838 - 1842

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