Entirely machine-stitched dress made of brown silk with brocaded horizontal stripes. Coat sleeves with mock cuff outlined in black glass beads and black alpaca bobbin lace. Front hook / eye closure. High bodice attached to the waistband. Pleated skirt with a greater length in the back.

Dress of silk taffeta striped in mahogany and white with a touch of blue, entirely hand stitched. Blue/red 1” silk fringe along edges of the outer, gathered layer of the bodice, front bodice boned, back hook/eye closure. Unlined skirt gauged onto bodice. Skirt and sleeves ends turned up this century (probably). Sleeves generously gathered at elbows.b) matching long capelet trimmed with same fringe. Comes to elbow at side, and below waist in front.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of green, blue, black, red, and white wool plaid that closely resembles the Hunting Rose tartan. Bishop sleeves. Front hooked closure. Cuffs. No side back seams. Skirt lined only near hem. Bodice lined with heavy cotton. 2 bodice darts on each side; no boning. Sleeve fullness tacked up inside elbow. There is a pocket. Black wool braid hem edging. Hem faced with brown printed cotton. Round waist seems particularly high in proportion to arm length, as might be suitable for maternity wear. Due to the skirt being short not only was this used for maternity wear but for a short person. Possibly reform-minded; informal.

Hand-stitched dress except for bodice seams and 3 of 4 rows of top stitching on front. Recycled silk lined with glazed cotton, back hooked closure. Boned. Gathered front ‘infant’ bodice, yoke, shaped ‘coat’ sleeves with black ruched silk ribbon decoration with black glass buttons. Pleated skirt, unlined. Attached crudely to the waistband. Out-of-period narrow turned-over hem. Has a pocket.

Entirely hand stitched wool/silk grenadine, printed a la disposition with pink flowers, and remotely Paisley motifs. a) Bodice has bell sleeves with puffed caps; draped bodice; back closure with brass hooks; boned.b) Skirt has 3 tiers of ruffles; teenage size? Entirely hand stitched wool/silk grenadine, printed a la disposition with pink flowers, and remotely Paisley motifs. a) Bodice has bell sleeves with puffed caps; draped bodice; back closure with brass hooks; boned.b) Skirt has 3 tiers of ruffles; teenage size?

Mostly hand-stitched 2-piece dress made of cotton. The design consists of brown ground with a floral block or cylinder print. Bodice (a) - front opening. Long dart each front. Curved fake SB seam. Slight V neckline. Long straight cuff-less sleeves. High waist. Reworked: piece cut from seam margin to enlarge sides and underside of sleeves. Bodice lined with glazed cotton. Skirt (b) - reattached crudely. Unlined. Hem is faced with what appears to be an early 2-color cylinder print except it is imperfect- may be a block print.

Brown floral striped cotton print; hand stitched except for crude repair/ alterations. Inner bodice, looser outer one with front button closure bordered with self frills; similar cuff treatment; flounce at hem which has wool braid edge; 'jewel' neckline. Back fullness; sleeves reduced in width; hand, cuffs added; sleeves and underarm enlarged.

Study piece Entirely hand stitched tan Moire/satin striped poplin (silk warp, heavy cotton weft MID); bell sleeves edged with needlerun lace, puffed sleeve caps; puffed sleeve caps; long pointed waist with shirred gathered V neckline (which probably is not original)

Entirely hand stitched turquoise green excentric copper roller-print on white cotton ground. High waist, gathered bust, gathered at CB, drawstrings everywhere; same at center and base of short sleeves; frill around hem, slight trained effect. Opening CB, tuck across back just above frill. Back frill not hemmed.

Mostly hand-stitched dress made of fine Delaine. The fabric is printed with a soft lavender ikat-effect plaid. Capelet effect made with the trimmed made of silk fringe. Double moderate bell sleeves trimmed to match. Full skirt pleated onto a fairly pointed bodice. Piped seams. Front hook and eye closure. Lined skirt. Embroidered 'ecru' net collar. Bell undersleeves.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of printed delaine. The design is printed to look like brown, black, orange, magenta, and turquoise plaid. Full sleeves. Pleated into the cuff. Pleated skirt. Deep faced hem. Front hook / eye closure with black glass shoe buttons. Straight waist. Piped seams. Later removal of 3 darts on each side.

Dress of white cotton muslin, unlined. Deep, rounded neckline with very narrow tape drawstring running through front and tying at center; similar drawstring at back of neck. Front of bodice is heavily gathered to skirt at raised waistline while back is more fitted, and held closed with self-fabric ties attached at side-back seams. Skirt has two horizontal tucks above hem. Very full sleeves set into deep armscyes, gathering on drawstrings to form soft, large puffs. Hand sewn. May have been worn for day/morning or evening dress.

Light delaine wool block print; fuschias and vines in vertical bands. Gathered piece over bodice, edged with aqua (once green) silk fringe; straight sleeves (later enlarged) with later flared cuff effect. Full skirt slightly longer in back. Skirt interlined with tarlatan. Deep bodice point. Partial front opening for nursing

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of brown checked cotton or alpaca MID blend. Bishop sleeves / jockeys. Front hook / eye closure with slightly pointed bodice. Piped edge. Attached gauge-pleated skirt with straight panels. Pocket on the right front. Skirt is unlined. Hem faced edged with wool braid. Boned. High neckline. Piped seams. Velvet ribbon trim.

Entirely hand stitched lt apple green silk brocade. Pointed bodice, med. wide neckline. Very full sleeves with rows of gathers at top and wrist. Fan pleats at mid breast, bow at base. Mancherons with frills caught at intervals to form scalloped effect. Small matching frilled pelerine. Skirt gathered.

Dress, entirely hand stitched cotton, cylinder printed with red and black; surface printed blue and yellow (almost gone) with a pattern of spike flowers with red and blue spiky florets with black stems, stamens and outlines, blue (green) leaves. Inset waistband, piped armscyes, gigot sleeves to elbow (cut off for work probably) and gathered bodice, wide neckline. Bodice lined with plain weave white cotton, floating in back with button closure. Inked name label inside neck reads “S. Daman"

Entirely hand stitched delaine, blue ground with cream or white, red, green catkins design. Slightly flaring sleeve with jockey, both bound with 1” green silk ribbon. Slightly pointed bodice is smooth with 1 pr darts and 12 pr tucks, no bones, no side back seam. High neck. Piping, gathered skirt, faced hem.

Dress made of green / black / white novelty woven plaid taffeta. Partly hand-stitched except for topstitching on back seams. Bell sleeves. Pointed ends. Lined with white silk. Edged with decorative stiff braid. Full, lined, and pleated skirt with a braid edge, faced hem turned up later as-is. Front opening bodice. Round waist. Custom-made 2-piece fabric-covered buttons. High round neckline. Bones in place.

Entirely hand stitched white cotton. WIde high neckline, piped. High straight waist, back opening with 3/8” PW linen tape drawstring. No neck fastener. Piped armscyes; knuckle length sleeves, wide at top with eyelet finish for hem. Piped side back seams in bodice. 4 rows of tucks around hem, with piped heading. Wide scalloped pinks- and- eyelet-embroidered hem finish. Bodice partially lined with linen, unattached at opening. Entirely hand stitched white cotton. WIde high neckline, piped. High straight waist, back opening with 3/8” PW linen tape drawstring. No neck fastener. Piped armscyes; knuckle length sleeves, wide at top with eyelet finish for hem. Piped side back seams in bodice. 4 rows of tucks around hem, with piped heading. Wide scalloped pinks- and- eyelet-embroidered hem finish. Bodice partially lined with linen, unattached at opening.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of printed sheer white windowpane muslin. The print consists of small light brown motifs. The skirt is unlined. Self hem. Right pocket. The bodice is gathered at the waist the center front and the center back. The bodice lining extends from the waist to just above the bust. The center front opening with hooks and eyes on the lining; not on the fabric. Mid forearm length bell sleeves edged with self-ruching. Piped neckline, waistline, and armscye.

Entirely hand-stitched 2-piece dress made of black silk satin. Bodice (a) - has a medium-deep point at the waist. Boned and fully lined. Shirring at the center front waist point and shoulders. Straight, somewhat loose sleeves gathered into narrow cuff bands. Jockeys trimmed with 1” simple black plied fringe. High neckline. Hook and eye closure in the front. Skirt (b) - Unlined. Narrow unpressed pleats in front, and cartridge pleats in back. Attached to the narrow PW cotton waistband hem is faced with brown PW cotton. One concealed pocket in the left front.

Entirely hand stitched dress. Cylinder printed cotton, checkers with superimposed flowers, black, red, yellow(block). High waistline, set-in waistband, skirt pleated in front, gathered in back. Hem faced with brown PW cotton. Back opening with hooks and eyes, some missing. Front has wide shallow neckline with crosswise drapery and self frill across top. No bones. Piped seams. Wide gigot sleeves to wrist with placket and hook-loop fasteners. Ties in armscyes.There may have been a tuck around the hem. Bodice lined with white heavy cotton, skirt unlined.

Entirely hand stitched medium weight white cotton printed with tiny red engraved florets which had yellow coloring. High neck, fairly wide pointed double collar edged with piped self binding, self frill above it. CF opening, no fasteners. Bust darts. Narrow back. Bodice lined with white PW cotton with crossover panels in front. Very long sleeves with gathers at top and back; pairs of self straps around wrist, MOP buttons. Sleeves finished with self binding as on collar. Self belt attached at CB. Apron front skirt, on twill tape drawstring. Cartridge pleats in CB; deep side openings. 3 full skirt panels, no gores. 3/4” hem, 3/4” tuck just above. Seems teen-sized.

Entirely hand stitched cotton printed with picotage stripes and floral springs on bronze ground, overprinted with soft orange and green. Stomacher front with high waist and flat brown cotton braid drawstring. Long gigot sleeves with no cuff; piping at wrist. Center front opening, flat brass hooks and eyes (may be later), round collar with self frill around edge. No bust darts or bones, no side back seams. Skirt gathered onto bodice.

Entirely hand-stitched 2-piece dress made of silk. Changeable pink / tan with green brocade windowpane ‘checks’ are printed on the fabric. Bodice (a) - slightly pointed waist. Back opening. Forearm-length pagoda sleeves retaining flared embroidered muslin undersleeves. Lined with glazed cotton. No bones. No trims. Curved edges on sleeves. The front fabric is loosely gathered over the bust and stitched in the center front at the waist. Pinholes from brooch at the neckline. The silk seems to be recycled, and the side seams and lining bust darts were let out and neatly finished in period. Skirt (b) - lined with glazed cotton; same as bodice. The skirt was probably re-done - neatly cartridge pleated onto the brown cotton waistband, no fasteners. Hem let down and edged with braid. The skirt consists of 4 full panels, not a wide skirt.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of black, white, lavender, pale yellow, and green plaid silk taffeta. Round waist. Boned darts. High round neckline. Front opening with tiny rimmed white glass buttons and buttonholes within 3” of neckline. Dropped piped armscyes with split jockeys. Slightly flaring sleeves to elbow ending in 7” slightly gathered bias ‘pagoda.’ Bottoms faced with violet silk gauze brocade ribbon. Straight skirt panels cartridge pleated onto waistband attached to piped bodice edge. Jockeys and sleeves edged with violet silk fringe. Violet silk medallion and triple tassels trim jockeys. Pocket in right side of skirt. Skirt edge ends out with dark brown velvet ribbon; properly finished with wool braid. Wide back.

Fine white cotton printed with delicate brown geometric stripes; entirely hand stitched; fairly high narrow waistband, bodice gathered into it toward center, gathered at neckline; back likewise; skirt gauffered onto waistband; short straight sleeves, 3 rows of frills; darts removed from bodice lining

Entirely hand stitched cotton dress. Red, buff, pink, white seaweedy wavy stripe. Apron front skirt, CF opening bodice with separate lining layer pinned shut underneath. Skirt back attached crudely to rayon (?-MID) tape and then to outside bodice. Wide curved neckline; long, slightly bulging sleeves with cuffs and mancherons; all trimmed with self, piped bias band. Frill with corded edge at skirt hem. Skirt unlined; bodice lined with plain weave white cotton. Sleeves partially lined with same. No evidence of CF closure, perhaps pinned. Long recent shoestring run as drawstring through recent (?) casing formed in neckline band.

Entirely hand stitched brown print cotton, small cartoonlike sprigs in light brown and white. a) Separate bodice with skirt attached in little pleats in front, at least as repaired; remains of cartridge pleating in back. Rather high waist, pointed, with piped center seam and shallow fan pleats radiating from center bottom edge. Wide shallow neckline. Self bias bound edges. Sleeves full at elbow, mancherons at top, edged with two rows of tucks; piped seam. Small cuff with hook and loop. Slightly dropped armscyes; all bodice seams piped. Skirt unlined; hem faced with faded brown plain weave cotton. Bodice lined with tan cotton; channels for bone in CF and narrow one under each bust and underarm; only CF bone remains. CB closure, h/e. b) Capelet lined like bodice; edged with self flat piped edging. Little shirring rows across base of CB

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of sheer white cotton. Bodice (a) - shirred at center back and center front waist. Straight waist. Wide shallow neckline; off shoulder. Piped neck and armscyes. Double row of ruching at top of short gathered bell sleeves which are finished with ruching. Lined with PW cotton like percale. Floating in back with center back closure; brass hooks and eyes. Boned; bones missing. Skirt (b) - mounted on waistband, refashioned from all gathers to smooth front. Long train. Five rows of self frills around hem; top row with self-frilled header.

Entirely hand-stitched 3-piece dress made of Robin’s egg blue and honey beige silk taffeta with 2” cross stripes. Skirt (a) - 7 full-gored panels. Coarser white underlining. Seams piped with rather thick, soft blue. Large boxy pocket, no waistband. Speculated to have been cartridge pleated. Day Bodice (b) - blue thread first, then black and gold. The center back seams are not topstitched. Straight waist. The upper chest front is padded with a thin layer of cotton wool. Blue ribbon ruching edged with narrow black lace on each side and applied to the top and edges of 2-tiered pagoda sleeves. Evening Bodice (c) - lined with natural glazed cotton. Splendidly stitched with silk thread looks odd because it was black and has faded to gold. Wide scoop neckline. Back opening. Tiny cap sleeves edge with narrow blue braid. Bones removed. The center back seams are topstitched. Very slightly pointed waistline in the front with piped edges.

Entirely hand stitched white cotton. Top is slightly different fabric from skirt; apparently the 10-year-old skirt was recycled onto a more fashionable bodice. Wide, open neckline; slightly puffed, rather loose, long sleeves to the knuckles. Piped wide “low” neck and sleeve ends. Skirt smooth, attached to semi-high waisted fitted bodice with topstitching. Full in back, back opening with flat braid drawstring in waist, found threaded through twice [?]; black hook and eye at neckline, may not be original. Front skirt has 4” wide stripe of white cotton embroidery down center, band of similar motif around hem- intertwined scroll and flowers- satin stitch and French knots, mostly. Bodice partly lined, skirt unlined

Woman's morning or evening dress of white cotton muslin woven with gauze and gimp stripes, partially lined in the bodice with white linen. Lining fastens in front with three white glass buttons; front bodice (gathered on drawstring along neckline) then fastens over it with single dorset button on right shoulder. Back neckline has slight notch at center where drawstrings from either side tie. Back of skirt and back of bodice are both gathered, and then gathered further on heavy internal drawstring. Self-fabric half-belts on either side of back come to tie at front of waistline. Full sleeves set into rather deep armscyes, gathered at cuff on outside of arm, finished with a narrow lace. Hand sewn.

Entirely hand stitched sheer muslin sprigged with buttonhole stitched dots. High waist, set in waistband, hooks and eyes (original?); full sleeves, quite long with very narrow lower halves punctuated by three equally spaced inset strips, the third forming a narrow cuff; closed on each one with a thread loop over a small Dorset button. Wide, low neckline, piped; shoulders have three crosswise bobbinet insertions adjoined by slightly shirred sections. slightly gathered skirt fuller in back; skirt finished with 2 rows of ruching with piped edges above hem. No linings. Back opening; no fastener at neckline

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of blue plaid silk taffeta. Round waist, piped and attached to skirt 'gauged' by being drawn up on a tape. Once had a pocket. Wide, straight neckline with narrow yoke. Short dagged sleeves edged with long dark blue silk fringe. Back opening. Softly shirred front and back bodice laid over white cotton underlining with flat brass hooks and eyes. Boned. Skirt is fully lined with polished brown cotton. Deep hem turned up over the lining; no braid edge. Dress seems to have been reworked with moderate skill from an early 1850s appearance with a slightly pointed waistline. Front bones removed.

Entirely hand stitched cotton printed with red flowers on off white ground sprinkled with minute dotted brown Ms. Bodice is gathered slightly above inset waistband, spreading over shoulders where it is restrained under piped bands. Back opening with floating bodice lining. Skirt gathered into waistband. Large gigot sleeves with tapering forearms. Very small waist

2 piece dress of ivory moire and ivory silk/wool gauze1) Waist length bodice of tissue with point in front, modified tails in back, moderately low round neckline with wired standing moire frill lined with silk machine lace frill. 3/4 sleeves with short cuffs formed of moire ribbon band with flat bows. Thread ball buttons. b) Skirt with asymmetrical design— front of narrow pleated gauze between side panels of moire. Back is tissue gently pleated over bustle with a puff over the left hip. The right hip has three tiers of pointed ribbon tabs cascading to hem. Front section accented with ribbon strips draped diagonally left to right, ending in flat bows. All bows and tabs have (had) 3 silk bobbles dangling from their pointed ends.

Entirely hand stitched celadon green-grey silk taffeta. Much pieced. Classic construction: center back cut in one piece from neck to hem. Skirt attached with narrow, even pleats all around. Pocket slits sewn shut. Curved hem let down further in front. Front edges of skirt edged with fine cream silk band; hem faced with similar silk to depth of about 9.” Tight sleeves to just past elbow, bound with same silk. Bodice opening has slight shaping, comes to blunt point; 1” overlap, silk tape in casing along top front edge, in lining which is heavy glazed white linen. Ties and loops on either side inside skirt, for looping it up.

Entirely machine-stitched with hand-stitched finishing dress for a shorter woman made of golden brown silk. Bodice (a) - high round neck. Round waist. Front opening with self buttons. Moderate ‘coat’ sleeves. Darker brown bias satin band applied around cuff with rep frills on either side, same forms deep curve across chest, front and back Gored Skirt (b) - cartridge pleated into greater fullness at back. Deep self flounce at bottom of skirt, heading of satin band near top edge. Separate Apron-like polonaise (c) - poufed back section. Front sections curve up to the center front. Hook closure. Satin band parallels edge of polonaise and ends of bow streamers. Silk fringe edging on polonaise and ends of bow streamers, now a golden olive color, once perhaps matching dress. Self belt (d) - fastens in front- satin band ‘keeper’- bow is speculated to be missing. Attached, large self bow in back, with wide streamers.

Hand stitched white cotton dress. Bodice has high waist with inset waistband, long sleeves with slight fullness at top and cuffs shaped to the wrist ending in self frill and back opening. Bodice embroidered in white cotton with floral motif. Bottom of skirt has related embroidered motif of arching leafy branch with berry spray, Chenille berries, satin stitch, French knots, and ‘bar’ stitch. The dress was enlarged by adding a narrow piece to the side bodice and a waistband inserted between skirt and bodice. Stitch marks in the skirt top indicate the dress apparently originally had a high, slightly pointed waistline not preserved in the re-modelling. There are stitch marks from a fine long, diagonal tuck ascending from each side near the bottom corners of the front panel inwards toward the waist.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of heavy brown silk brocaded satin. Long, pointed waist front and back. Laced closure with brown silk cord. Deep V-neckline outlined with brown silk ruching. Skirt is pleated onto a separate waistband mounted inside bodice which is lined with off white glazed cotton and has a pocket. Moderate bell sleeves trimmed with brown silk ruching and brown satin bow ornament at the elbow.

Entirely hand stitched printed white cotton dress. Print design of clustered red, aqua and lavender geometric flowers outlined heavily in black on a lavender seaweed ground. Stomacher front with soft cotton drawstring and long sleeves with slight fullness at the top and piped openings. 3” rows of stitching at front and back of sleeve near armscyes helps the fullness of sleeves. Bodice is lined with white cotton. Bodice front accented with pair of folded bias bands. Skirt is narrow and unlined.

Entirely hand stitched shot silk dress. Rounded, trained back panel deeply pleated into narrow section of bodice. Stomacher front with shirred panel over bust and extensions to be pinned on shoulders. Deep round neckline. Deeply-set elbow-length tubular sleeve (enlarged in period) with a shorter and wider, somewhat flared oversleeve, each trimmed with a row of white silk cord. No interior bustle or cord to tie inside. Lined with linen, floating in front. .

Entirely hand stitched fine cotton printed with a brown machine design of tiny triangles. Slightly pointed waistline, bodice has neat tucks radiating from center front waist, releasing fullness at bust. V-neckline. Sleeves have narrow upper section above full lower section tapering to the wrist, and at the elbow level a pointed jockey with frill trim. Piped seams. Skirt gathered all around mounted inside the bodice which is lined with heavy cream plain weave cotton. Unlined skirt with a pocket on proper right. Hooks and eyes on the back opening.

Entirely hand stitched of thin cotton printed with a pale buff design of seaweed. Slightly pointed waistline, bodice has finely shirred fullness radiating from center front waist, releasing fullness at bust where it is shirred over the shoulders. V-neckline free of lining which shows above it a little. Sleeves have narrow upper section, separated by piping from the full lower section tapering to the wrist. Piped seams. Skirt gathered all around mounted inside the bodice which is lined with heavy cream plain weave cotton. Unlined skirt with a pocket on proper right. Hooks and eyes on the back opening. Center front bone present. Hem faced with cream sized cotton.

Entirely hand stitched of sturdy cotton printed with stripes in shades of brown. Slightly pointed waistline, bodice has shirred fullness radiating from center front waist, releasing fullness at bust where it is restrained by cording at the shoulders. V-neckline free of lining which shows above it a little. Sleeves have narrow upper section graduating to a slightly fuller lower section rather crudely gathered into a narrow band cuff. Piped seams. Skirt gathered all around mounted inside the bodice which is lined with heavy cream plain weave cotton. Unlined skirt with a pocket on proper right. Hooks and eyes on the back opening. Center front bone missing. Hem faced with brown cotton.

Entirely hand stitched dress, printed wool. Rainbow purple stripes with large paisley block printed motifs. Closely fitted pointed bodice with round neckline and no drapery. Long straight sleeves with fullness around elbow. Skirt pleated onto bodice. Hooks and eyes up the back. Bodice lined with thin plain weave white cotton. Skirt lined with finer white cotton. Long bone extends down from chin to point.

Dress made of fine poplin (fine silk warp with cotton weft) with brocaded stripes. Shaded blue and violet-gray on brown ground. Trimmed with deep blue and black fringe on jockey and bottom of bell sleeve. The skirt has been crudely reattached. Kept for interest in fabric and colors. A Pekin striped fabric with a distinctive waxy sheen. Looks like it could have been a logwood purple once, instead of tan. It would have been fairly costly, and the fringe is pretty spectacular.

Machine stitched dress, 2 piece. Remade from ca 1872 to ca 1878 (?). Ivory grenadine, gauze weave with cotton (or cotton/wool) warp, silk, wool MID. Patterned silk stripes; dobby O’s in green silk with black tops. Pretty stiff. Frill edges finished with black satin binding. a) Basque with fairly short hem, slight point; cut off section remains, showing it was about 7” longer, quite flaring. Two pairs of frills apparently removed from sleeves. Radiating back seams. Underlining of heavy muslin. Flat gray pearl buttons with simple engraved designs. Standing collar bound with black silk. b) Skirt is clumsily remounted on a muslin waistband, back opening. Evidence that it was pulled into a puff from underneath but it appears the the skirt may have lost a panel. Outer layer has one short frill and is shaped a little like an apron. The under layer has two wider, less gathered frills. No lining. Seems to have originally had hand stitched seams until the panels were reshaped and restitched by machine."

dress, golden brown silk/wool gauze Entirely hand stitched dress with detachable sleeves. Fine silk warp rainbow printed in tones ranging from golden yellow to dark orange, and fine tan wool weft woven in stripes with reverse twill, in close and widely spaced sett - probably considered a barrege. a) Dress has high waist, wide scoop neckline, puffed sleeves, side gore in skirt which is smooth in front; Back opening with a steel hook and eye at neck and silk draw tape through CB, long enough to tie in front. Bodice lined with sturdy PW white cotton. Skirt unlined except for deep hem facing. Sleeve puff controlled by sets of tapes inside. Sleeves and hem trimmed with diagonally set bronzy tan satin ‘blades’. Same used to delineate triple “V” on bodice and to trim cuffs. 2 small eyelets in back lead to nowhere seemingly. For a short, small woman.b) Pair of long narrow detached sleeves with silk drawstrings in casings at top; bands of bias silk above wrist.

Hand-stitched dress made of green and violet plaid silk taffeta. Basque Top (a) - full bell sleeves with slightly gathered puffs at the top of the sleeve; pointed at the bottom. Bordered with long violet and black fringe; fringe applied on bodice to frame center front opening and spread to shoulders and across the back. Small thread covered. Non-functional buttons to match. Skirt (b) - fully gathered onto a modern acetate waistband.

Entirely hand stitched dress, dark blue sarsnet (thin silk). Remodeled from earlier style mainly by raising the waist about 1 1/2 inches. Very high waist, long straight sleeves set well into back; curved cuffs extending over hand. Curved neckline with drawstring in front, slit in CF; opens on proper left side where 2 black hooks and eyes have been sewn, perhaps at same time narrow black velvet ribbon was put into the casing - the Centennial, perhaps, or turn of century. Small, crude inverted pleat in CB bodice. Linen lining in bodice show evidence of lower waist. Skirt is 3 full widths of silk (perhaps one removed), a slit extends the bodice opening. The sides have been laid onto the front section at an angle without cutting anything to shape. The skirt was rather roughly gathered onto a self-band which was in turn applied to the bodice. It appears to have been neatly stitched originally, and the remodeling done by a less patient hand, in period. Large rib cage unless intended to be gathered by a belt. Bodice opening is rough from pinning; casing is slit from movement of drawstring. 2002.134-8 together, with a note reading:” Matha [sic] (Walker) Brown Factory cloth dress. Age 9 before 1800

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of heavy poplin-like cotton with blue and red warp stripes. Bodice is simply cut so the front has chevron stripes giving a fashionable effect. High round neck. Bodice and sleeves lined with sturdy white cotton. No bones. Curved side back seams. Dropped armscyes. Sleeves cut more or less straight with ample ease at back elbow. Wrist plackets secured with two small, flat buttons covered with black silk, and 2 loops. Front opening with concealed, sturdy hooks and eyes; opens toward right with skirt slit. Skirt gauffered into self waistband that wraps completely around back, coming to the proper right side in front where it must have been pinned. Sleeve ends and hem faced with brown woven checked cotton. Appears to me to be a good candidate for a modest attempt at reform dress (being unboned, short, and having a natural waist although the chevron effect and straight sleeves give the nod to fashion).

Entirely hand stitched dress made of navy blue and white checked cotton (MID), (58 epi, 29” wide) not likely homespun as claimed by the dealer. Back opening. Stitched with brown cotton and white cotton. Slightly high waisted, normal in back; medium wide scoop neckline, shoulders wide; 1 bust dart each side. Long sleeves with full caps, fullness more to the back, tapering to wrist where a turnback cuff has been fashioned (original). Brown cotton twill tape drawstrings in back neckline, pair in casings in back waistline inserted to draw across both sides over the opening to form great fullness at CB. Skirt slightly gathered in front; front cut with angled sides, pieced; two deep tucks above hem; deep pocket of same fabric in proper right side. Unlined. Bits of brown thread above cuff suggest that they were originally stitched in place there. Also some in hem region- may have been shortened.

Partly machine-stitched dress made of recycled 1840s dress. Made of thin delaine with a ‘lollipop’ design on brown ground. Now the bodice is machine stitched with new cambric lining and finished seam allowances as appropriate for 1890. No boning. Extra side back seam, high armscyes, sleeve caps slightly high. The skirt cartridge pleated onto the bodice, the center front opening. Pocket. Hem faced with the Alizarin printed design of the 1850s. Apparently, a skirt panel was used for the new bodice, probably also original bodice sections. Fairly high-standing collar. The 1890s faced metal buttons. No attempt at a fashionable skirt silhouette. For a tall and extremely slender or youthful figure.

Mostly hand-stitched 3-piece dress made of double-pink printed cotton. Shoulder seams and the neckband are machine-stitched. The full skirt is unlined. The cartridge is pleated onto a normal waist. Dress (a) - loose over the front underling which hooks closed. Shirred at the center front and back waist. High neckline with a standing collar. Jockeys with triple self-frills. Left and right sleeves (b,c) - removable sleeves are fastened with white China buttons to the lining of the jockey. These sleeves have the greatest fullness at the top and taper to the wrist, closing with slit and concealed hooks. 3 vertical rows of self-frills from the wrist to the elbow. The hem is finished with a pale pink wool braid. There is a heavy cotton underlining with an extra layer added between the center front and the first bone.

Hand-stitched dress made of white cotton gauze. Embroidered floral sprays decorate the garment. The skirt is made of two scalloped edged tiers topped by a narrow tier of rouching. In the back the tiers are replaced by a smooth, straight panel with 3 finished edges and floral motifs scattered appropriately for a shawl. The bodice is a basic organdy construction intended to be covered by a panel floating across the back from between the shoulders which is brought up around the neck like a large kerchief, crossed in front where the corners, each trimmed with a Dorset button, hook onto the skirt just below the waist.

2 piece dress made of fine silk broadcloth, printed with long, white leaf sprays on gray-blue ground.a) Bodice has close-fitting torso with front opening concealed by gathered fabric over the bust; slightly pointed natural waist. High standing collar, large leg-o-mutton sleeves with silver-gray satin bows behind each wrist. Boned and lined with brown sateen, floating in front and closed with pearl buttons.b) Skirt is bell-shaped, gored, with greater fullness in back; hem finished with double self frill and faced with heavy brown velveteen. Underlined with fairly thin brown cotton; narrow self waistband backed with heavy tape.

2-piece dress made of fine white striped muslin with dainty pink chine rosebud printed stripes. Bodice (a) - deep, round yoke made of plain pin-tucked muslin strips alternating with lace insertion and a standing collar to match. Yoke is bordered with deep self frill with lace insertion above hem. Long sleeves with fullness above wristband and deep frill cuff with band of lace insertion above hem. Pouf at the center front waist. Lined with white percale that floats in back with boned edge and hooks. Muslin layer closes with tiny pearl buttons. Bodice CF and CB, and sleeves, have full-length vertical pin-tucks. Skirt (b) - shaped to hips with tucks. Flares to hem, extending into slight train. Deep flounce from the knee with frilled heading finished at the hem with three tiers of narrow self frills.

Dress for a very small woman, entirely hand stitched, of printed cotton. Print is cylinder printed in purple, black and red with single blue-green “grounded in” by block. High waist, very narrow rib cage. Bodice cut on bias and set with stripe making neat chevron in front. Self collar with corded ribs enabling it to stand off the body. Very long sleeves full at top, tapering to wrist; short double epaulets and wide wrist bands forming a sort of 3-loop bow. Three rows of self frills at hem. CB opening with floating buttoned bodice lining. Dress back closes with white cloth-covered wire ring buttons, similar ones slip through thread loops on cuff bands. Edges trimmed with heavy white cotton decorative braid or gimp. b) Self belt edge with white braid

Dress of subtly beautiful, substantial changeable dark brown/pinkish-tan grosgrain. Round piped waist, high round neckline originally; unusual unpressed pleat or fold worked into shoulder seam; unusual in having the underarm seam so far to the back; no bones and no darts (the opening and waist were remodelled to fit a larger waist, and to have a surplice opening). CF opening with hooks on floating lining. Lined with brown cambric which has evidence of standard form with unboned bodice darts for a much smaller torso. Fairly narrow sleeves shaped with a pair of piped darts to taper to wrist, end has 1/2” self binding. Skirt has narrow pleats all around except in CB which is cartridge pleated. Unlined; no pockets.

2-piece dress made of ivory taffeta. Bodice (a) - points front and back. Boned. High round neckline. Bell sleeves. Trimmed with a pinked double ruff around the bust, shoulders, and sleeve edges. Side seams are let out and restitched by hand. 'Buttons' have a lacy surround composed of silk thread ‘feathers’ radiating from a tiny self button, secured to a tulle base. Suggests frost patterns. The bodice seems to fit a very small, but buxom, upper torso. Skirt (b) - pleated onto the waistband. Lined with thin white lining cambric. The second phase appears to have occurred in the late 19th century. The extended portion of the skirt was attached to what may be a late 19th-century twill tape band. The hem was turned up again to remove the trained effect. Perhaps the standing collar was done at that same time, indicating that the dress was recycled in the 90s. The top of the skirt was removed from the waistband at the center front, the pleats unpicked, expanded, and handsewn to a twill tape band in crude gathers; that seamline split or unpicked about a foot down; the standing collar added to the neckline [to conceal the loss of facing]. Button trims are extremely fragile. Deep side seams unpicked to the armscye and hand stitched with narrow allowance, to add girth to the waist. A bit of ivory damask was added for the facing.

Closed robe, entirely hand stitched, of rust colored grosgrain, with apron front skirt. silk ribbon in casing, CF opening on bodice (no fasteners) and deep neckline. Rounded bodice point. Lined with supple, thin unbleached linen, perhaps homespun. Sleeves fit just below elbows with closely folded separately attached cuffs. Back is en fourreau.

Dress of brown silk satin with a greenish tint, lined with white polished cotton. Wide neckline on drawstrings in silk layer to tie at center front closure; there is another pair of drawstrings at the waist. Front linings have no fastenings. Back is unshaped, with stem stitched curved lines mimicking side back seams. Front of skirt, made as an apron-front, is pleated toward sides over a channel that holds another drawstring; back is carefully pleated toward center back to bodice. Long, straight sleeves are piped at wrist edges, which curve up to the seams. Hand sewn.

Small woman or teen size. Dress, entirely hand stitched. Made of soft celadon green silk satin, pieced here and there. Boned bodice opens in front, V neckline with soft spreading gathers emanating from neatly topstitched chaste pleats at CF. Lined with lt. brown twill cotton, floating in front where it hooks closed. Round waist with piping. Faux side back seams formed by finely worked outline stitches. Unlined skirt pleated onto waistband that opens to the left; greater fullness in closer pleats in back; slight trained effect; deep brown cambric hem facing. Pocket in right front. Sleeves are extremely long with a surprising amount of fullness at the top, tiny bit of ease for elbows on the inside [!]; tapering to the wrist, neatly finished with finely piped facing. As with the earlier dresses, the front edge of the sleeve is fairly straight, cut almost on grain, and back edge meets on the bias. Was that seen as an economy? The seam is so far forward that it must have been very uncomfortable because it looks like it is on backwards.

Small woman or teen size. Dress is entirely hand stitched, of celadon green taffeta. Apron front, CF closing with drawstrings in top and button of bodice fronts. Floating front bodice lining. Skirt pleated onto sides and back; gathered on long drawstring at front. Bodice fronts extend over shoulder to back section; deeply set round armscyes. Tubular elbow-length sleeves. White glazed cotton lining in bodice, none in skirt.

Dress made of tight fitted bodice with short tails and neatly pleated bustle skirt. The main fabric is black voided velvet in a rose pattern, the secondary one is a black grosgrain that looks greenish in the photograph. Blackened brass buttons depicting a Japanese lady seated on a fence, wielding a large bright steel fan.a) The velvet bodice has a high standing collar; long, tight sleeves set rather high on the shoulder. It circles along the hip, dipping down in the front and forming little tails in the back. The front has a center panel of grosgrain that parts at the bottom like a vest; it closes with functional buttons are spaced tightly in a row down the center. A wide black grosgrain ribbon bow is fitted across the bust. The collar and cuffs are protected by a folded ribbon with large picots that form a neat edge.b) The velvet skirt has inverted box pleated grosgrain insets at the side fronts, and more pleated grosgrain fits smoothly over a bustle at center back. It opens at the left side, has a right-side pocket, and a bustle-‘strut’ across the derriere inside, that can be flattened for storage.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of Delaine wool. Printed with green vine stripe alternating with a brown shaded spot stripe. Smooth bodice. High neckline. Narrow sleeves with double ruched or puffed tops and generous gathering behind elbows to allow motion. Two hooks and placket fit it close to the wrist. Plain skirt pleated into waistline, unlined. Has a pocket.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of printed delaine. The print consists of rose vines and brown stripes. The skirt is unlined. 3 tiers of bias flounce above the hem. Plain-boned bodice, rather large round neckline. Concealed hook closure, no buttons. Bell sleeves with tiered effect at the bottom; faced with ordinary brown lining cambric. Flounces finished with self-bias binding. Rather long-waisted.

Dress made of dark warm blue velvet. Bodice (a) - close-fitting. Slightly long. Pointed waist with little tails in the back. Long, narrow sleeves set at a natural height. Standing collar. The Front has a faux-laced effect with blue cord wound back and forth around cut steel buttons and tassels at the bottom. Pink ribbon edges collar and cuffs form a little bow with streamers at the center front neck. Ecru lace frill around collar and cuffs. Very tiny waist. Skirt (b) - soft puffed effect at left hip. 2 collapsible inner stays to give bustle form. Extra panel hooks to the waistband at the sides to cover the skirt which is mostly lining there where it does not show.

Dress made of mohair cotton. Cotton consists of a MID weft, space-dyed (single fiber shades from one to the other) black on natural, and on a dark brown cotton (MID) warp, giving a fine striated effect like camlet. Coat sleeves with chevrons of black velvet ribbon suggesting cuffs. The center front opening has functional buttons. The buttons are a jewel type that has a glass ‘dewdrop’ center with a sparkly black sandpapery background. One button on each wrist. Loosely shaped bodice and no bones in lining darts. The lining is a brown drill. The waist comes just under the bust which suggests maternity wear. High round neck. Round waist. Narrow box pleats around the front and sides, and excellent cartridge pleats in the back. Unlined skirt, faced hem with wool braid.

3-piece dress made of deep red-violet moire or watered silk. Trimmed with deep red-violet velvet bands and hand made lace edging.a) Bodice, boned, lined with white lining cambric; high round neck with band collar, ‘coat’ sleeves, velvet-covered convex buttons. Band of ribbon around armscye and another forming angled shape over shoulder; one around sleeve edge and another forms deep cufflike curve above. Each band anchors an inward-facing black lace edging, doubled on the shoulder band.b) Skirt opens LF, pleated, smooth over front; long rounded train. Pocket RF. Above front hem are 3 parallel bands of ribbon curved up at the side where they interlace and angle downward. 2 similar bands around the back. Interlined with light tarlatan. Train faced with brown glazed lining cambric. Hem edged faced with matching wool bias tape.c) Matching belt has a covering of black lace and matching flat flower closure.2) Pelerine-fichu of black hand made Chantilly lace. Probably intended for an evening bodice.

Dress, entirely hand stitched, printed cotton having rainbow printed stripes in blue and green, grid or fancy cross checks in black, dark brown, brick, pink, lavender, blue and green. Gathered from shoulder to CF of dropped, rounded waist with shirring. Piped waist edge, gauffered skirt, hem faced with dark blue cotton; pocket of purplish cheap print in proper right side front seam. Front opening, V neck with hooks and eyes about 5” up. Floating lining of heavy unbleached muslin, hooks a bit farther up. One side retains basted cotton batting filler over breast on inside of lining. Dropped shoulders, long bias jockeys edged with ruched self-fabric; very long bias sleeves with generous ease gathers at elbow, and piped edge and placket, lined with purplish print. Bones removed from side front dart. Side seams and sleeve seams let out about 1/2” each side.

White organdy, Entirely hand-stitched dress made of white organdy. The bodice is gathered into the waistband. The skirt gauffered onto it. Back opening with brass hooks. Deep hem. The skirt is unlined and the bodice is lined. Fine embroidered edging along scoop neckline and short, wide straight sleeves, insertion at the shoulder seam. 1 puckered sleeve.

Woman's morning or evening dress of white cotton mull, unlined. Bodice is gathered on drawstrings at front of wide neckline, meeting to tie at center; back neckline is also gathered on drawstrings, which act as fastenings for back closure. No fastenings at waist remain. Bodice gathered to waistband at either side of front (softly) and across back piece (tightly). Full, short sleeves set into deep armscye, gathering at back of shoulder; sleeve is finished with a drawstring. Slight train to skirt. Hand sewn.

Entirely hand-stitched older girl’s dress made of peach-colored ‘cashmere’ wool; utterly unadorned. Long waist with piped seam. The skirt is attached with a double row of shirring. Short tubular sleeves with deep tuck. Slightly wide round neckline. Back opening with MOP buttons. Bodice lined with white cotton. Sleeves are lined with brown cambric; also used to face the hem. No stitch marks to suggest there was any decoration.

Girl’s dress, entirely hand stitched, made of a form of barrege, a leno weave with what appears to be a white pina warp MID* and very fine white wool MID weft with closely packed wefts about every inch. It is printed with small, irregular horizontal band motifs that suggest distant mountain tops, in shades of blue and red, probably perrotine printed since the motif is about 4” high and has a sideways repeat of about 12”. The dress has a wide shallow piped neckline, sloping off the shoulder with short puffed sleeves finished with a deep frill of machine lace. Coarse, soft unglazed PW cotton lining, cloth draped loosely over it with narrow pleats at CF and CB waist; waist piped with white. Hooks and eyes on lining only, in back. Full skirt with deep hem. Made quickly with long stitches. "*The fiber is clearly made of ribs or bundles, a bit knobby, twisted here and there. It could be jute or hemp but I am gambling on pina since it was more likely. Similarly, the wool is very fine with delicate annular scales- I assume it is merino or the like. Of course, it is meant to be worn with a crinoline and white petticoat.

Dress made of printed wool. Rounded necklin. The wool is patterned of narrow brown stripes alternating with broad brown stripes which include rows of green circles. Long sleeves display green insets possibly added to enlarge the wrist openings. Hooks and eyes closure on the bodice area.

2-piece dress made of fine silk and wool challis printed with mulberry, red and gold floral with a geometric stripe pattern. Bodice (a) - Basque; high round neck. Piped armscyes; dropped shoulder seams with wide bell sleeves. Lined with fine white twill cotton; white lining cambric in sleeves. Soft mulberry colored thread buttons Skirt (b) - gathered onto white cotton waistband. Unlined. Hem faced with brown lining cambric.

Partly machine-stitched dress made of fine silk warp-printed with horizontal floral bands in shades of gray, ivory, green, blue and pink. Long golden tan silk fringe and gray / multi silk decorative braid. Bodice (a) - wide, deep neckline. Jockeys above full length bell sleeves with short slit up the outside. Front hook closure Deep points front and back. Cream colored lining cambric in body; cream silk in sleeves. Box pleated pinked double frill inside each sleeve hem. Side back faux seams. Boned. Bust pads. Center back is laced with grey silk cord. Fringe and braid on hems. Braid on neckline and jockey. Skirt (b) - attached to narrow self waistband in narrow pleats. Waistband faced with lining cambric. Hook and eye closure. Pocket in right seam. Lined with brown lining cambric and narrow hem edged with faded pink wool braid. Pelerine (c) - cut square across bottom and closed with hooks in back so it transforms the dress into a yoked day dress. Hem trimmed with fringe and braid. White lining cambric. Back edge faced with olive silk ribbon. Ribbon loops attached at corners speculated to receive a ribbon tie to secure the pelerine.

Woman's morning or evening dress of white cotton muslin, partially lined in the bodice with white linen. Squared neckline, with narrow linen tape drawstring across front to tie at left side of interior; front bodice piece is also seamed horizontally roughly halfway between neckline and waist, which is at just above the natural level. Straps and side pieces are lined, with free-hanging back lining pieces and a strip of linen across the bottom of the front. Back neckline has linen tape drawstrings, while back of waist has a self-fabric half-belt sewn to exterior of each side-back seam, both of which run through large channel across both back pieces and out the other side, to tie in front. Full sleeves, finished with drawstring above opening to form a small ruffle. Skirt has three tucks above hem, which is finished with a two-sided ruffle made from a tube of cotton pressed flat. Hand sewn.

Dress, entirely hand stitched, made of fine white cotton percale. High waist with set in waistband. Wide scoop neckline, bound edge, closed with 2 pearl buttons at top and about 2” down. Bust darts and side back seams. Lined with heavier cotton at sides. Crude linen extension on left waistband, with buttonhole. Long sleeves, very full at top and tapered to wrist, simple hem, piped armscye. Skirt has side gores, is smooth across front and gathered across back, more in CB. Hem has 2.5” self frill beneath 2 rows of applied bands of cotton satin-stitched vines between drawn thread borders. Machine embroidered??. Little threads at wrist - possibly had frill but maybe the museum removed inappropriate lace ornament. More along waistband - appears that an embroidered band may have been there. In the back, along the neckline seam a discreet tuck was made to improve the fit. For a large woman.

Girl’s dress, entirely hand stitched delaine, very dark green with white and green florets. Yoke, dropped armscyes, slightly flared short sleeves edged w. d green knotted fringe. Full skirt gauged to piped set-in WB. Back closure with detached lining. Hooks and eyes. Faced hem with 2 tucks.

Boy’s dress made of thin peach wool. Flat plain bodice. Short sleeves; one opens at shoulder with no fasteners. Evidence of pinning in the cotton lining. Bottom and neckline edges are scalloped. Short skirt attached in box pleats. Embroidered grapevine border above deep hem in golden yellow silk.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s dress made of chrome 'camouflage' orange cotton print. Plain bodice with a wide neckline. Short flared sleeves that is edged with white machine-laced lace. Skirt gathered onto inset waistband. Back opening with buttons on waistband and neck. An additional drawstring on back opening.

Dress of rosy tan silk satin whose underside is rosy colored, suggesting that was the original color of the dress. Entirely hand stitched, no lining. Extremely high waist with 3 bust darts at each side, and coarse gathers across the back waist resulting from the thickness of the fabric turned over to form a casing for a linen tape drawstring. Skirt has side gore panels. Neckline is medium wide, nicely scooped with no evidence in front of a drawstring, and the possibility of one in the straight edge of the back neck. The ‘waist’ and shoulders seem sized for an large woman, yet the bust is fairly small and the neckline, even when extremely drawn in in the back, still leaves very wide shoulders, so the armscyes fall upon the upper arm. The sleeves are very long and baggy, drawn into generous puffs around the bottom by means of two loosely-gathered tucks above a hem that is also slightly drawn up. The skirt front is smooth like the bodice, the back bodice probably was meant to be gathered at the neck, too, but the strings are missing; crinkles in the casing suggest it had drawstrings and there seems to be evidence of some stitched at the anchor point. There was a tuck just above the hem, now removed.

Dress, entirely hand stitched of printed calico, blue wood-grain pattern stripes alternating with tan ones over a lighter rainbow ground, separated by warm toned paisley motifs. Long pointed waist with loosely gathered bodice over a boned underbodice. Full skirt with one pocket on proper right side. Hook and eye closure in front (underbodice). Long tight sleeves with fullness gathered into back of elbow at the seam. Turnback cuffs. Piped bodice seams.

Brown silk rep or faille day dress, embroidered by hand with circles and half-moons. Bodice has center front panel gathered lace in a deep V. High round collar. Tight sleeves. CF hook and eye closure. CB has tails to splay over a bustle. Skirt is of same brown silk rep/faille fabric with portions hand-embroidered. Bottom hem of skirt has two layers - crenelated layer first, then overlay layer with brown/green velvet stripes horizontally.

a) Entirely hand stitched dress made of lapis-printed calico. Very large upper sleeves and long, narrow lower sleeves requiring much pushing up on the arm; self covered buttons at wrist. Somewhat high, round waist with Apron front with front opening bodice with both edges piped; wide shallow neckline; moderately full skirt with fairly smooth front. Pleated panels forming a chevron over the bodice. Tapes inside waist back to secure dress; no ties for sleeve puffs. Deep hem facing of white calico. b) Self-fabric belt.

Entirely hand stitched dress made of 2-color cylinder printed floral stripe on cotton (black, red) with (blocked or surface printed) tan wavy ground stripe (faded peachwood or logwood, probably). Made for a teen with a flat chest, for which there are 2 long darts nearly to the shoulder; the high-waisted bodice is cut on the bias in front; it had to be pieced at the lower outside corners. It has a side back seam near the arm. The bodice is lined with heavy unbleached cotton, bias in front, with the bust dart offset from the one on the outer fabric. The back bodice lining floats, with a large flat brass hook and eye at the top, middle and bottom. The back waist has the usual drawstring arrangement to produce fullness there, but this is a blue and white woven cotton drawstring that is sewn along the inside waist as a stay, tunneling into a casing at the side where it becomes the drawstring. The neckline is a medium-wide bound opening that probably accommodated a chemisette with a collar of some kind. The skirt is cut with the typical side gore. The sleeves are long and tubular but with a lot of fullness concentrated in the back of the top. Sleeves and skirt have a single tuck above the hem. No pocket or pocket slit. No belt.

a) Dress with additional day bodice (or cool weather bodice!), entirely hand stitched, made of silk (MID) that looks changeable but is woven with fibers of colors varying slightly from olive to dark olive or brown; perhaps might be considered a pongee. Plain weave with a very slight rep effect. Fabric is 18.5” wide. Straight skirt panels gathered except for flat part in CF; set into wide waistband; back opening. Slightly high waist; bodice is smooth, cut on bias with 2 bust darts and a straight neckline with 2 shoulder pieces, piped; the back has piped ‘shoulder blade’ seams; hooks and eyes. Gigot sleeves tapering to wrist with a slit; piped seam and wrist edges; hook closure. Hem faced with brown glazed cotton; bodice and sleeves lined with tan cotton. No bones. No evidence of ties for sleeve puffs. b) The second bodice is like a vest, close-fitting, cut on bias in front; wide waist band, 2 bodice darts; high neckline with short standing collar; no sleeves. Piped seams; concealed hook and eye closure in front. Fits lines of the dress exactly.

Dress made of green alpaca- a plain weave with paired black cotton warp and green alpaca weft (MID). Slight rib effect. Light, springy, and glossy. The back panel is made of a brighter, denser, all-wool. Unsure if it's original or a repair. The bodice and sleeves are lined with tan glazed cotton. Bodice has a high, round piped neckline. It is pleated front and back into the waistband. No darts or bones. Front opening with buttons covered with the red and green plaid used on the bias to make the cuffs, waistband, shoulder bands, and a wide band above the hem. The skirt is pleated onto the waistband. Self-hem about 2.5” deep. Bishop sleeves, fullness pleated at the top into piped armscye, at the bottom in narrow cuffs which lack buttonholes and show no certain evidence of hooks. Pocket on the right side. The skirt seems to be full-length (36”), however this seems to be a garment for movement / sport.

Pieces of wedding dress, cut apart. Entirely hand stitched. Ivory silk gauze layered over ivory silk satin, edges bound with satin. Embroidered with ivory silk. a) bodice, pointed waist, vertical embroidered strip anchoring gauze drapery over bust, and in back. There are 3 strips in the back, apparently an attempt to enlarge the bodice. No evidence of hooks or other fasteners. b) sleeves, gauze over satin; lined with coarse buckram to give fullness. Huge, short sleeves, the opening bound with silk, trimmed with blonde lace edging, and a satin-bound gauze bow (remaining only on one sleeve) c) skirt, gauze with embroidered pattern of vertical sprays of flowers above a deep hem, all around. d) 6 extra bows like the one on the sleeve; probably appeared at CF neck and waist, other sleeve, and each sleeve top, and maybe one in the hair.... Part of Anna Hoppin Dyer’s wedding attire.

Voile dress made of white cotton. Long sleeves. Slightly blouson bodice with standing collar. Lace waistband. A-line skirt with 2 bands of wide tucks above the hem. Narrow tucks around hips, released at the knee. Coarse white embroidered zigzags form a meander border above tucks. Scattering of related bud shapes above that. The bodice has a center panel of horizontal pintucks forming a collar and narrowing as it reaches the waist. On either side are bretelles with 1” hem and filled with more embroidered meanders, extending over the shoulder in front and back, and narrowing to the waist. Triplets of cotton bobbles mark the inner edge of each bretelle on the front. Matching faux cuff of tucks on each sleeve. Concealed placket in the back with small MOP buttons.

Entirely hand stitched cotton, printed with columns of tiny red diamonds alternating with tiny yellow ones. No waist or yoke, front and back flared; shoulder straps, short tubular sleeves; neat back opening with placket finish. Double casing at front and back neckline, white cotton hand plied drawstring. Sleeves edged with single row of tatting (no sewing's); sleeves have lengthwise insertion of same threaded with what appears to be linen cord.

Hand-stitched fine white cotton dress with medium-length straight sleeves with deep tuck. Wide straight neckline with fine drawstrings separately in front and back and shoulder straps. Inset waistband attached to long skirt with deep tuck. Inset band of sheer cotton with shadow embroidered leafy vine above the hem of skirt and sleeves, applied with chain stitch from backside with a similar effect on the waistband. Dotted lines outline the waistband, straps, and lines along tucks and hems.

Infant’s dress, entirely hand stitched thin cotton with light red and blue fine pinstripes (gingham or maybe madras?). Open down entire back, selvage edges. Raglan sleeves, short with drawstrings in hems. Drawstrings in front and back necklines, and in one casing around entire waist. No tucks. High waistline, no gores in skirt.

Machine-stitched with hand-stitched finishing. Made of fine quality heavy striped pique with napped underside. Excellent workmanship. Dress (a) - closes in the back with a thick pearl buttons. High waisted bodice with high round neck and 4 pleats down the front. Long sleeves. Fine featherstitching down the center front. Skirt opens in front with overlapped edges without hooks or the like. Featherstitched around hems. Cloak (b) - cut on bias with the center back seam and curved front edges. Hem finished with piping and deep frill of superb quality Swiss embroidery.

Infant’s long dress or cooler, entirely hand stitched, made of cotton with a red/black, tan cylinder printed floret design. Medium low straight neckline with the un-waisted body gauffered onto the piped edge. Wide, long tubular raglan sleeves finished with self-frill made of folded strip formed into little box pleats; sleeves are lined with a different faded print cotton. Back neckline has a casing and blue-ribbon drawstring, although the thick gathers would not draw up much tighter with grace. No hem tucks.

Small child’s dress, entirely hand stitched, made of fine white cotton. Utterly simple except for row of tiny chenille balls along hem, and machine KNIT lace around edge of sleeves. Straight bodice with casing turned up along bottom for a ribbon tie, probably; shoulder straps; narrow casings at each neck edge for tiny PW linen drawstrings. Large, puffed sleeves with casing at bottom for soft plied cotton drawstrings. Flaring skirt cut with diagonal sides; back skirt is straight, gathered slightly onto bodice. Two tucks above hem.