Entirely hand-stitched dress with matching pantalettes made of thin, light tan gingham checks. Dress (a) - has a high waist with a wide waistband with a pointed end in the back. Secured with 3 pairs of brass hooks and eyes. Calf-length skirt with deep hem and tucked above hem. The bodice gathered into the low, straight neck and angled into the waist. The edge is piped and bound with bias; shoulder straps are finished the same. Double-piped faux side back seams; piped armscyes, long sleeves full at the top and tapered to the wrist. Hook at CB. Lined with heavy cotton at the sides. Pantalettes (b) - ankle length, have gingham basted to the basic garment. The bodice is a basic cotton rectangle with cutouts for underarms, and linen tapes as drawstrings at the front & back neck, and waist. Wide cotton tape shoulder straps. Legs are cut full from what appears to be coarser, home-woven cotton. Opens to the waist.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s dress with matching knee pants made of tan cotton plaid with brown and orange cross stripes. Heavily patched and re-patched with the same fabric on the knees and crotch, and a similar one on the dress across the waist, elbows, and sleeve ends. Dress (a) - smooth bodice. Short. Flaring skirt; opens down the front and closes with 10 green calico buttons, alternating between checkered and polka dot patterns. The neckline is lower at the opening, suggesting that is the front, however, the sleeves are set in facing the other way. The sleeves are the ‘coat’ type, finished with a bias band at the cuff, possibly a repair. (If the sleeves were ever turned, it does not show). Pants (b) - standard. Open on each side. Gathered slightly into the waistband with 3 buttonholes on each side. Knee length. Bias facing inside hem.

Entirely hand-stitched girl’s dress made of bright blue and gold changeable silk. Long-waisted. Wide, and shallow scoop neckline. Short, double-frilled sleeves. Silk gathers into the center of the waistband and spreads to the neckline, front, and back. The skirt is beautifully gauffered onto the waistband. Floating PW cotton bodice lining closes with hooks in the back. Silk closes with hooks at the waist and neck. Pocket in proper right side. Skirt lined with tan cambric. The silk is neatly turned up for a hem.

Child’s dress, entirely hand stitched, cylinder printed cotton. Brick red ground, black diamonds forming a diagonal grid or trellis, the centers filled with white flower with big leaves. Bodice gathered front and back into wide bound neckline and waistband; skirt gathered into waistband. Long sleeves, slightly full at the top. CB opening with hook and loop closure.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s three-piece ensemble made of red and black checked silk foulard cut on the bias and trimmed with bands of narrow black velvet ribbon. Dress (a) - smooth, loose, unshaped drop-waist bodice and short, very full skirt. Deep, wide scoop neckline, short wide sleeves. Back opening, tiny black swirl-back glass buttons, cone shaped. Black silk chain stitch outline of button stand. Ribbon trim on sleeves and hem. Bodice lined with white glazed cotton. Possibly worn with fine white blouse. Jacket (b) - high round neck, peplum or Basque. Long, full sleeves gathered into narrow cuffs. Front opening matching that of the dress. Trimmed on cuffs and hem. Body lined with dark pink glazed cotton. Circular Wrist-Length Cape (c) - lined with red silk. Fastened at high round neck with a decorative swirl-back black glass button. Ribbon trim around perimeter.

Entirely hand-stitched older girl’s dress made of printed cotton (3-color cylinder machine with a linear coral-like branch in red and one in black over a lavender blotchy machine ground). Pointed high waist with bust drapery shirred at center front waistline and at shoulders. High round neckline. Back hook and loop closure. Large gigot sleeves shirred at top, above a self frill. Skirt attached to muslin waistband attached inside muslin-lined bodice; smooth across front; pocket on right side. Unlined.

Entirely hand-stitched girl's dress made of block-printed cotton. The pattern consists of cream ground with red, black, purple, and green cartoonish designs of rectangles and skyscrapers arranged in columns, alternating a green vermicelli ground with a tan striped one. High-waisted. Skirt gathered (but smooth across front) into set in the waistband. The center front bodice gathers at the center front waist, and has applied corded bias strip at the side back ‘seam'. Back opening with large brass hooks and eyes. Narrow yoke in front, piped edge with self-fill all around to back opening. Wide bound neckline. Long, full sleeves gathered into cuff band closed by hook and thread loop; the upper sleeve is tightly shirred with a self-frill at the base of the area. Tuck above the hem. The bodice and upper sleeves are lined with heavy cotton; the hem is faced with sturdy white cotton.

Girl’s dress made of dark blue, pink, and gold cross-striped or checked shot silk taffeta. The bodice is lined with off-white cambric. Long, smooth bodice with gently curved piped waist and long bust darts. Wide, shallow scoop neckline. Back opening with hooks and eyes along a soft bone. Short two-tier frilled sleeves trimmed with blue silk braid. Long bone from neck to natural waist. Skirt cartridge pleated to the edge of the bodice. Pocket on the right side. Faced hem. The side seams, once boned, were let out a bit, and the skirt lengthened by adding a strip to the top edge, discreetly.

Entirely hand-stitched child's dress made of double pink cotton print. Wide neckline with slightly unusual shallow yoke-band extending into a point at the outer shoulder. Wide set in the waistband. Bodice gathered into yoke and waistband. Very full skirt with 2 deep tucks above 1.25” hem. Back opening 2 hooks and eyes at yoke and 2 at waist. Short, wide sleeves formed of a crescent shape whose pointed ends come together to overlap a bit at the top of the shoulder.

Child’s dress of green and white checked cotton with tiny float figures - madras. Entirely hand stitched. Wide neckline meant to go off the shoulder, bodice and short puffed sleeves gathered all around into neck self-binding. Sleeve bottoms also bound. Fairly long gathered skirt gathered all around into inset waistband; hem and waistband faced with much washed-out sack (illegible labeling). No tucks. Back opening with flat brass hooks at waist and neck. Dimity pocket bag at proper right in skirt.

Girl’s dress, mostly machine stitched. Made of plaid merino wool or wool-cotton mix, having red, green, black, blue and yellow on white ground. Wide flaring body on the bias, no waist, with diagonal opening in front, edged with black velvet ribbon and closed with flat black glass buttons. Coat sleeves with wide band of black velvet ribbon around bottom, and above the hem. Tiny standing collar. Lined with tan lining cambric. No pocket.

Partly machine-stitched dress made of red ‘cashmere’ wool. Smooth bodice with high straight neckline and short puffed sleeves with cuffs with attached lace frill. Skirt attached in wide box pleats. Back hook and eye opening. Vandyked bretelles. Golden yellow soutache braid applied in straight parallel rows around hem, on bretelles, on cuffs and across neckline. Bodice is lined with white cotton. White wool piped seams. Skirt is unlined.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s dress made of cylinder printed cotton with a light blue tiny spot pattern on striated machine ground. Wide, shallow neckline, self-bound. Elbow-length raglan sleeves; slightly flared. 2 rows of fine white cotton braid at the edge. Inset waistband with a tape tie worked through it. Back closure with concealed hooks and eyes. A fairly full skirt gathered into the waistband, 1” tuck above the hem. The bodice is smooth except for a pair of gently angled tucks from neck to waist, on front and back. Bodice lined with heavy white plain white cotton.

Girl’s dress made of pale celadon green Liberty silk, entirely hand stitched with silk thread. Smocked yoke and cuffs, embroidered pointed turned down collar and shoulder sections. Self covered buttons, 2 decorative ones in center front of collar. Pocket in right side. Lined completely with thin plain white cotton. Maybe it should have a matching sash like the gold Langdon dress; however the green one does not have one... This is important as an example of a wealthy child’s “greenery yallery” reform dress, the young Ida Langdon being a good example of such. She had more than one as evidenced in her portraits.

Older girl’s dress made of printed wool cotton-warp delaine. Peach ground with small sprays of red and blue-green flowers alternating with tiny squares. Bodice and sleeves lined with white cotton. Bones removed from front and sides; hooks and eyes removed from back opening. The bodice pleated into a shallow yoke in front, converging somewhat at the center front waist. Full skirt cartridge pleated onto piped waistband. Short sleeves formed into 2 horizontal puffs upon the lining.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's dress made of brilliant printed cotton with a black and red spot pattern. Bodice gathered generously into wide bound neckline intended to fit off the shoulder. Short, slightly flaring sleeves. Short skirt gathered into self waistband. Drawstring in back neckline. 2 China hobnail buttons on waistband in back, and 4 more on bodice. Sleeve edge trimmed with dense, white handmade lace. The skirt length and bodice side seams are the same measurements as the matching dress, but this one looks larger.

Little boy’s dress, entirely hand stitched. Made of brilliant printed with black and red spot pattern. Bodice gathered generously into shallow yoke with wide shallow neckline. Short, straight sleeves trimmed with 2 rows of Ayreshire edging. Short skirt gathered into piped self waistband. 2 pearl buttons on waistband in back, and 2 more on yoke. Skirt length and bodice side seam the same measurements as the other dress, but this one looks smaller!

Mostly hand stitched girl’s tunic / dress made of a cotton and silk blend. Dress (a) - very full body gathered into yoke band circling the shoulders around the wide, open neckline. Gathered into a dropped waistband. Short, full skirt with deep hem. Back opening. The yoke has simple white silk featherstitched interlocking ring pattern embroidered all the way around. Cap dolman sleeves trimmed with narrow matching embroidered band. Guimpe (b) - mostly hand-stitched, with large pattern machine-laced lace layer where it shows above the neckline, neck trimmed with lace frill; long, full sleeves with band cuffs embroidered to match the yoke. Gathered into an applied band at the waist, leaving a half inch frill showing below.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s dress, possibly a boy’s dress made of pale peach colored plain woven wool block printed with tossed squared meander motifs mingled with tiny squares in black, purple, magenta, brown and green. Knee length unlined skirt attached to piped inset waistband with reversed, double box pleats. Deep tuck above hem bordered with 3 rows of black soutache braid. Full bodice pleated into waistband and wide straight neckline piped with black. Short flaring raglan sleeves pleated into neckline and the fullness restrained halfway down by a row of black soutache, which also trims the edge of the sleeve. Full lining in bodice and upper sleeve of glazed white cotton. Closes in back with tiny flat black glass buttons on shanks.

Entire machine-stitched child’s dress made of cotton chambray. Full skirt with deep hem. Gathered into inset waistband. Wide scoop neckline band with white piped edges. Short ‘petal’ raglan sleeves edged with 3 rows of white soutache. 4 rows on waistband. Closes in back with a single MOP button at neck and 2 at the waist.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s dress or smock made of heavy unbleached linen. Replicates a farmer’s smock with dense decorative smocking in the top center front between embroidered paisley-esque motifs executed in natural linen thread. The back matches, with a center back placket. Two-piece pointed collar. Moderately full sleeves, underarm gussets, gathered into narrow cuffs. The collar, cuffs and embroidered sections are outlined with feather stitching. Deep hem. Mother of pearl 4-hole buttons.

Three piece day dress of dark red-brown plain weave wool. A) Fitted bodice buttons down front, with peplum over hips, long straight sleeves have ruching at cuff, around neck and down middle back. Flat matching silk covered buttons. B) Skirt is cut for bustle and has a flounce and ruching at hem. C) Apron front overskirt has two rows of vertical shirring at each side; longer back panel gathered slightly at sides into the front. Worn and owned by Matilda Taber (Mrs. Andrew Smith): Married Jan. 21 1868 (born Sept. 28,1846) in Enfield Center, NY. Lived in Cayutaville, NY

Green wedding dress made of pale green silk satin with gold trimmings. Bodice (a) - long sleeves with slight puff at cap. bodice is at natural waist with slight ‘pigeon’ breast. Tri-swag front bib covered in embroidered netting. Completely lined with stays in front and back. The center front hook and eye closure. Underarm protectors - may be a later addition. Skirt (b) - long skirt made of 7 gored panels. Flat front with a center back closure made of cartridge / gauged pleating. Completely lined with finished seams in interior. Deep hem with velvet hem binding. Collar (c) - collar made of buckram. Hook and eye closure at the center back. Embroidery appliqué. This garment came with an expanse of green silk satin fabric unused from dress. (G2021.09.001).

Entirely machine-stitched, with some internal hand-finishings house dress made of heavy blue and white / light blue stripe cotton fabric, almost like a jean. Both bodice and skirt are unlined. Heavily pleated in waist / hips and bodice to fit to wearer. Bodice (a) - features 3/4 length sleeves. Set into armscyes with terminating just below the elbow in pleats as well, set by a bound edge of light blue tightly woven cotton fabric. Internal waist-tape that ties in front. The center back is pleated down into a V, forming short peplum at the center back. Pleating from shoulder to above bust to form a ‘yoke’ of sorts, all the pleats openings are below to form a mono-bosom or pigeon breast front. High round neckline with center front closure made of handmade eyes with missing hooks. Skirt (b) - heavily pleated across waist and hips to fit wearer. Waistband is made of self fabric with a center back closure made of hooks and eyes, still present. Hem is about five inches deep. Pleating comes to a small point at the center front of skirt; makes a flare. No train but plenty of volume for a trumpet effect.

Magenta silk dress with appliaue decoration and black beading.

Entirely hand-stitched infant short dress made of fine cotton printed with tiny brown or once-black spot pattern. Very high waist in front defined with a decorative woven white tape that forms a free-floating strap or belt in the back; wide, high straight neckline; flaring skirt. More of the tape forms the cuffs, defines the side front seams (no back seam), and makes a border about the hem. Evidence of (removed) 2 narrow tucks above hem and 3 more above insertion. Each short, puffed sleeve is shaped by 3 fine linen tape loops attached inside the armscye and brought to the outside through a tiny eyelet and hooked over a Dorset button. Drawstrings in the neck and waist. The cuffs, neckline and hem are finished with buttonhole loops.

Printed cotton, sprig pattern; purple; some fading to grey; possible maternity dress.

Pina cloth evening dress; white silk organza (Pina Cloth?) with pink ribbon stripes, elongated, fichu draped bodice to front v "W" point, polonaise over skirt, lined bodice.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's dress (the skirt is quite short) made of blue and green floral print cotton. Smooth bodice. Straight waist. Very short sleeves with narrow crocheted lace-edged turnback cuffs. Draw sting made of extra wave braid in the wide neckline, meant to be pulled off shoulders. Back opening with concealed brass hook/eye closure. The bodice is lined with sturdy white cotton. Deep hem with a border of white rikrak or wave braid. Well-made.

Entirely hand-stitched girls dress made of Delaine fabric; orange ground with alternating round 'buds,' one lilac with white surround, the other red with dark teal surround, superimposed on bleached-out-looking yellow leaves and bars. Infant bodice gathered into yoke with shallow wide neckline; lined with white cotton; back opening closed with tiny incised 4-hole mother of pearl buttons. Full long sleeves gathered into narrow cuffs; jockeys curved up to armscye. Set-in waistband. Short skirt, tuck above hem which is faced with pinked white cotton. Skirt was gathered with a layer of printed cotton to give body to it. Top stitched with white silk thread. Neck and jockeys bound with 1 1/8" fancy ribbon, also used to form a bowknot at the top of the sleeve. The ribbon has yellow ribbed brocade stripes on the sides with a deliciated brocaded pink rosebud trail down the center. Very lovingly made.

3-piece girl's dress made of fine peach-colored 'cashmere' partly machine stitched. Trimmed with 3 rows of narrow cerulean blue velvet ribbon on all hems. Basque with princess seaming has longer pointed 'tails' in back; turquoise velvet colored dome buttons close the back. Long pagoda sleeves with machine lace edging tacked to the inside of the sleeve hem; a narrow lace frill at the high neck. Piped armscyes. 2-lobed apron overskirt (a) - high at the sides; plain cotton waistband is basted onto the similar skirt waistband. Shin-length skirt is full, more so in the back, closes with a large brass hook. Basque (b) - lined with plain white or cream cotton. Skirt (c) - lined with coarser, thin sized natural cotton lining. Bodice was made with fabric from slightly different dye lots.

Hand and machine-stitched two piece dress made of black alpaca/silk warp (microscope identified). Well-made; simple, minimally stylish. Basque (a) - hip length; even all around; front opening; simple neck with standing collar. Long straight sleeves with simple kilted flounce at hem. Black glass buttons with some sparkle, metal black plate and loop. Lined with tan cotton, inner front waistband secures with hook and eyes. Areas in front of shoulder and back of neck have padding to smooth out the fit. Skirt (b) - narrow; column of slight shirring at center front and each side. Bustled back has seperate layer arranged in many puffs. No interior ties. 14" kilted founce around bottom. Suitable for second mourning or general 'walking' about.

Two piece dress made of tan rep (silk wrap and cotton weft). No evidence of tapes used to shape either piece into puffs. Unusual long 'coat' effect. Top (a) - cut in the form of a coat with very long curved 'tails' and princess lines accentuated by applied self-bands from the shoulder around to the bottom of the coat. The front parts over a hip-length faux vest. High round self-bound neckline; self-covered dome buttons, lacking one at very top. Wide bell sleeves with self-band borders, drawn to a soft pleat near base with a self-bow. Skirt (b) - made of angular panels with slight train, proper left side front placket, in-seam pocket on the right. Hem has deep facing of brown glazed cotton, self-bias bound hem. No unpicked lines or folds giving evidence of pleating or gaugling; presently has a brown glazed cotton lining casing on the back portions and turned over casing made of the ottoman in front, with a tape drawstring. Probably had sets of deep pleats.

Girl's ensemble made of rich brown / eggplant purple silk satin. Embellished with beautifully painted flowers, birds, etc., and black iridescent beads, apparently original. Dress (a) - very low waist band above double row of medium width box pleats; center bodice panel between flat bands has horizontal shirred rows. Long straight sleeves with turnback cuffs above narrow box pleated frill. Lace edging (machine run) gathered around the neck for a simple collar, and lace frill inside cuffs. Back opening; full length; has 14 iridescent black glass buttons with a bird design. Cape (b) - with attached wide ribbon ties with little floral sprays painted at the bottom. Bottom finished with crenelated effect achieved with spaced slits. Lined with maroon silk. Between each flap is a double or triple strand of black bead fringe. Purse (c) - with rounded bottom and pointed flap made of the cape lining. Black bead tassel at the bottom, and knit strap with beads forms the handle.

Lavender silk two piece dress; fabric is embroidered with flowers and geometric design consisting of five graduated stripes; bodice has short sleeves with large puffs ending at the elbow; bodice is boned and has laces up the back, bodice front has two wide pleats over the chest and ends at waist with pocket pleats, pointed waist front and back and has matching sash; skirt is lined with brown cotton and hem is lined with stiff crinoline edged in lace; slight train; material has faded to gray.

Entirely hand-stitched dress made of thin, fine striped silk. The fabric is decorated with brocade floral vine stripe accents in shades of navy, gold, and peach. In several areas the weft is a rosy color, perhaps not so distracting when the dress color was fresh. High neck with small standing collar still bearing a handmade lace decoration in the form of 3 points. Smoothly fitted bodice with front opening with a hook and eye closure with tiny self-buttons on the outside. Very long, fairly pointed waist. The skirt is beautifully gauged but it has been turned. The skirt is underlined with light, brown plaid cotton. Faced hem. Short flaring sleeves trimmed with navy blue silk-covered wire passementerie border.

2-piece dress made of yellow and white striped light cotton with black velvet trim. Bodice (a) - sleeves with lace insert stripes and a large ruffle that ends below the elbow. Trimmed in black velvet with a black velvet bow. Eyelet lace interwoven with the black velvet and lace high neck tops the bodice. A large velvet trimmed ruffle runs all around the lace insert. Skirt (b) - unlined. Three-tiered velvet trimmed ruffles with the velvet trim eyelet around the top ruffle. Light train.

Entirely hand-stitched girl's dress made of double-pink printed calico. Longish straight bodice with wide, shallow neck and short cap sleeves overlapping on top like petals. Short skirt with peplum or Basque effect. All are outlined in a fine white braid. Six-button closure in front.

Fine cotton dress for toddler or young child. Machine and hand-sewn stitches throughout. Appears home made. Yoke front across, shoulders, and back. CB closure of MOP buttons (3). Yoke, sleeve cuffs, and across hem have machine lace insertion tapes, with flanking rows of faggoting with white cotton thread. Full sleeves.

Gown of a dark green silk twill (surah), lined in bodice with off-white cotton. Jewel neckline over center front closure. Bodice gathered slightly on either side of waist in front and across back. Proper left edge of opening is piped, while proper right is a narrow hem; shoulder seam, armscye, and side back seams are also piped. (Front lining hangs free.) Skirt was possibly a full apron-front at one time, but is now gathered directly to proper left front of bodice and goes into a dog-leg closure over proper right side of bodice; entire skirt seems to have been removed from bodice and re-gathered. There are two tucks above hem, the lower one completely obscuring the hem itself. Long, curved sleeve, very full at shoulder, pleated to flared cuff at wrist, which fastens with a single self-fabric button.

One piece dress of black silk faille. Center front opening on bodice, concealed hook closure, decorative faille covered buttons, high round neckline. Sloping off-the-shoulder long sleeves edged at wrist with satin bands and finished with lace frill (added afterwards). Simple full floor length skirt to be worn with hoop and pleated into waist band in front, cartridge pleated in back. Skirt opens at proper right front. Hem finished with wool braid turned up about an inch or two at later date. Modern snaps added later.

Green silk dress with blue satin and black velvet striped box pattern.

Child's dress of white cotton. No yoke, but CF and CB is made form machined-embroidered cotton panels, with eyelets. CB closure of MOPS buttons. Deep hem in skirt, which is set into bodice waist with gathers, not stoked or stroked. Long sleeves with puff at sleeve/shoulder cap. Wrist finished with more machine-embroidered, same as stand collar.

Two piece dress of heavy silk and wool or mohair cream and gray grosgrain material. a.) Fitted bodice with high collar and long straight sleeves ending in point over back of hand, lace trimmed. Bodice front trimmed with simulated bolero of ecru lace. Bodice overlays and fastens under left arm and over shoulder. Attached waist band of striped cream colored ribbon, fastening in the front to simulate a bow; small oval cut steel buckle. b.) Simple gored floor length skirt with fullness at back. Hem is faced with light tan velveteen

One gray dress with black accents and lined in assorted brown fabrics. The dress is mostly machine sewn, with small areas of hand sewing. The collar is short and stands up. The front is fastened by a vertical row of black covered buttons. Each side has two, machine sewn in boning. There is an interior, self attached belt with eyehooks. The sleeves are slim and have tightly pleated ruffle at the wrist with a wide black band and a gray/black bow detail. The slim profile front is accented by alternating horizontal, black taffeta bands with pointed ends and a gray and black ribbon bow at the center of each band and gathered panels of the gray fabric. The flounced hem has vertical pleats, top and bottom bands of black, and on the wide pleats, a black band, pointed at one end. The back has two long black vertical strips of the black fabric that extend down until the low bustle begins. The top layer of bustling fabric is rigged together underneath, while the lower layer (which includes the flounced hem), has a band of elastic tape.

Dress made of sheer white organdy with lace, lace insertions, and decorative pleats. The sleeves are slightly wider at the elbow and more fitted at the wrist. The wrist is embellished with lace insertions, angled pleats, and additional lace. A similar treatment is done at the shoulder. The yoke and collar also have angled pleats, lace insertions, and additional lace. The front is buttoned with hooks and eyes waist closure. The center section of the skirt has horizontal rows of pleats alternating with the ruching.

One brown plaid child's dress and matching piece of fabric. The fabric has hints of white, dark brown, light brown, blue, and red. The dress has no collar, long sleeves with a ruched cuff, button front, and ruffled hem. The lining is a pink and white print with rows of roses and lines with rectangles. There is both hand and machine sewing, with handmade buttonholes. The matching piece of fabric is hemmed on all sides and may have been a sash or perhaps was going to be added to the dress as an additional ruffle. A note tucked in with the dress says that it belonged to Eleanor Thornton Milton at age two, but that she died by three.

White cotton child's dress with short sleeves and a squared neckline. The yoke and sleeves are accented by angled tucked rows and bands of openwork and embroidered lace, with the lace edging of the sleeves having a pointed shape. The waist has been cartridge pleated and the lower half of the skirt features alternating bands of angled tucked rows and bands of the openwork embroidered lace, with the bottom hem having the same points as the sleeves. The skirt is slightly longer in the back. There is a small cloth covered button on the back neck, along with a tie, and a hook / eye closure at the waist.

Partly machine-stitched 2-piece dress made of natural / ecru silk. Circle and line pattern, overlaid with a very fine natural / ecru gauze. Pink moire ribbon details have been added. Bodice (a) - has front hook/eye closure, a straight front waist and a pointed back waist. The neckline has a small gauze ruffle and the yoke has a wide gauze ruffle edged with two narrow bands of pink ribbons. The back has a large pink moire bow with a trailing piece that has a hook closure at the tip. It is unknown how this was used or where it was attached to. The three-quarter sleeves have a shoulder puff of gauze. There is boning and an attached self-belt inside. The inside is lined with brown cambric. Skirt (b) - flat front, a slight train, and a sewn gather part way down the back to aid in creating a lower bustle shape. The gauze overlay has a gauze ruffled hem with two narrow bands of pink moire ribbon at the edge of the ruffle. A wide pink moire ribbon is sewn to the waistline to create a belted look. The waist has hook/eye closure. One pink ribbon bow is sewn to the body of the skirt and it appears as if there was one more that is now missing. The skirt is lined with a natural colored fabric. The underside of the bottom hem has an extra row of the silk that has an elaborate scalloped edge and was meant to peak out from beneath the outer hem.

Gown of black moire-patterned silk faille with black bobbin lace at neckline, along with either side of CF buttoned closures, and cuff/peplum. Flat moire pattern ribbon bows at CF, placket altered, many loose or missing buttons, light discoloration under placket, 1" seam strain right cuff lace and hem lining flounce, Tattered, few scuffs, light wear at hem, minor discoloration to trim.

Entirely hand stitched dress, thin white cotton, printed with colored sprigs on ground of dotted pin stripes; slightly bell sleeves with tucks, separate ground of dotted pin stripes; slightly bell sleeves with tucks, separate bodice with pointed waist with frilled robings; skirt gathered on, per “rehab” job; back opening, cotton lining, boned CF, unlined skirt.

Entirely hand-stitched day dress made of lightweight Balzarine fabric (wool weft and cotton warp). Printed with a Greek key and lozenge design, running vertically. Bodice has a high round neckline with drooped sleeves, which are both full and knife pleated to the armscyes. Top of the sleeves has three grosgrain ribbons attached for design near the cap. The bodice has a center front opening with a hook and eye closure. The waistline is straight across. Lined with plain white cotton fabric. Bones at the center front sides. Bottom edge of the hem is edged with brown twill tape. The skirt has a pocket on the right-hand side, which was stuffed with fabric remnants of the same dress fabric.

Lady's three piece cotton print dress (bodice, skirt, apron). Purple and white centennial star pattern. White stitching detail. Celluloid button on the bodice front and cuffs.

Dress for a toddler or very small child. Cotton print (same print as dress 2024.08.005). Entirely hand-stitched and unlined, except for reinforcement plain white cotton in shoulder area of dress. Drawstring neckline, ties in CB with ties. Drawn waist set with internal waistband. Short sleeves with same attached/drawn technique used. Sleeve singular flounce, trimmed in white rick-rack. Short hem.

Lady's 1890s wedding ensemble featuring 6 pieces: Bodice - Satin oversized short sleeves in cream, with body of bodice made from cream silk taffeta. Structured with tailoring seams, boning across interior waist, waist tape. CF hook and eye closure, lined with brown glazed cotton;. Pleated satin silk collar stand, with bow CF. Tide lines stains on sleeves. Skirt - Full skirt of silk taffeta, with silk satin details on either side above hem, topped with bows. Top half of skirt is lined with plain weave cotton, while bottom 1.5' is stiffened with cotton canvas, glazed cotton strip/facing, and dark tan velvet tape across bottom hem edge. Gathering in CB, with CB closure of hooks and eyes. Step into waistband to to be smooth in font and sides. Gored panels. Belt - pleated silk satin in cream, matching collar stand. Lined with brown cotton glazed fabric, stays across length, and silk taffeta in cream facing. Hook and eye closures at CB. Bertha overlay - notched satin silk scallops, with machined lace (embroidered net) across bottom edge tacked in simply on interior. Bow of satin CF. CF of lace has one small dark brown stain Petticoat - plain weave cotton petticoat gathered all around waistband. Three tiers of tucks and lace tape near hem. Some tearing of the lace in spots - to be repaired. Chemise - plain cotton chemise with lace (embroidered netting) yoke and small shoulder straps. Some discoloration but no holes, tears, or loses.

Two piece reception dress of gray silk taffeta. A) Fitted hip-length bodice, longer in front and back, and fastened with faux pearl buttons (blown glass) up front to high rounded neckline. Diagonal graded pleating from waist to shoulder. Triangular shaped revers extending to pleated stand-up collar at back. Sleeves fitted to elbow and finished with wide cuffs edged above and below pleats and rosette. Watch pocket inside left front waist. Three pairs of buttons (now missing) on back tail flap. B) Full, floorlength skirt cut for bustle trimmed with flounces, pleating, scalloped frills, tailored straps, etc. Two large bustle puffs, with strap tied in a bow around the bottom one.

Lady's 1890s day dress in printed cotton. Plain weave cotton, printed with red flowers and sprig. Machine-stitched with some inner hand-finishing. High round neckline with small stand collar. CF closure with buttons, and bodice lined with plain weave cotton. Long sleeves with filled in machine-lace. Same machine lace down both breasts. Full skirt, unlined. Some scattered stains.

Lingerie dress made of fine, plain-weave cotton and lace tape insertions. Sleeves and skirt are horizontally pleated with small, 1/4" tucks/pleats interspersed with embroidered netting tape (lace tape). Smallest of trains in the center back. Gathering across waistline (at natural waist), with knife pleats, with generous gathering in the center back of dress. Dress is closure of buttons at the center back. Dorset buttons. Sleeves are long and straight with a slight puff at sleeve cap / head. Tall neckline of stand collar. Sleeve cuff area and across neckline there are machine-embroidered panels of rococo-revival ribbons.

Two piece dress, changeable apricot silk with apricot wool. CF closure of lacing. Skirt taffeta is shredded in sections. Inner CB pillow filled with horsehair. Large hooks and eyes in CB closure. Train. Soiled, pleated balayeuse of cotton tarlatan. Purchased by Katherine Winter Gilbert (1860 - 1956) in Paris during a trip to Europe in 1883, when she was 22 years of age (Provenance from donor). Yet NY label?

Young child's short dress or first dress of fine white cotton. Entirely machine-sewn. Bodice is pleated or tucked toward CF, with Cb closure of MOP buttons. Placket is hidden in back. Cb and CF both have inserted triangular panel of machine-embroidered cotton fabric. Stand neckline/collar made from machine-embroidered cotton, gathered around neckline to form a stand or flounce standing up. Long sleeves slightly bent, made form two pieces. Wrist has two tucks and flounce of same fabric as collar. Very deep hem on skirt bottom. Ties of cotton attached at hips. Light staining on skirt.

Lady's day dress made of fine cotton muslin. The pattern on the muslin consists of a woven horizontal stripe and printed purple and yellow peacock crest amongst a field of small grey polka dots or simply, dots. The bodice waist is at the natural waist or a bit higher. Yolk area over the shoulder of the bodice with horizontal tucks, with the sloping shoulder line. Curved sleeves of two pieces, with machined lace tape sewn into the outer seam. The same machined lace tape is present on the yolk as well. The bodice has a center front closure with Dorset buttons which are hidden hooks and eyes on the inner cotton lining, and snaps sewn in at a later date. The skirt is deeply gauged all the way around the dress, with gauging denser at the center back. The skirt is cut from rectangular pieces and has a slight train in the center back. Horizontal tucks across the hem as well.

Lady's 3-piece wedding ensemble. Bodice (a) - made of pale cream duchess satin. Large sleeves with volume toward the top - leg-o-mutton. The bodice front is pleated vertically with the center front opening of hooks and eyes - hooks are covered in floss. The bodice is lined with pale chine silk and boned all across the abdomen. Sleeves are lined with cotton glazed, with wrist closure of 2 hooks and eyes. All internal seams are finished nicely and neatly. The outer waist of the bodice has satin silk horizontal bands. Waist tape inside has hooks that link the eyes on the waistband. Skirt (b) - very heavily stiffened. Shaped or gored panels allow the skirt to sit smoothly against the hips at the center front and sides. The center back is deep pleated with a train extended beyond the bottom of the skirt. Hook and eye closure at the waist, with eyes on the waistband that attach to the bodice. The skirt hem is turned over deeply and edged with cotton tarlatan. Over this is a pleated single-faced satin ribbon wide, with machined lace netting tape with a tulip design pleated in a strip above the ribbon. The hem is interfaced about 8 inches deep. The skirt itself is lined with fine cotton lawn, with several layers of cotton duck or canvas between lawn and satin. The center back skirt / train is further stiffened with panel of cotton tarlatan, trimmed with the same machined lace netting. Internal ties all down back train section to either gather and restrain train, or allow it to splay open and "flow." Overlap (c) - single layer of silk damask of satin and pattern of lilies and orange blossom. The bottom hem is faced with China silk, with three covered led weights in a round shape at the bottom. Three hooks and eyes on one side of the panel. Wedding veil in original box, and wedding pins - see: 2024.07.011a-b 2024.07.012a-b 2024.07.013a-b

Two-piece lady's evening or dinner gown with a bodice with ‘robe’ train and skirt. Bodice (a) - small puffed sleeves with long torso; not yet a straight front corset, but not the curved stomach/torso shape of the 1880s. Sleeves are slightly puffed at caps, and gathers. Bodice center front and forearm sleeves are of golden-olive colored silk satin with black machine-net overlay. Black lace insertion tapes are attached to portions of the black netting. Black silk fabric of back of bodice and train/robe are embroidered silk. There is a waist tape inside the bodice; which has stays at each seam with maker label. Skirt (b) - same golden olive silk satin with black netting overlay with some lace tape insertion. Gathering at center back with center front closure of hook and eye.

Brown and blue plaid silk dress. Bodice has straight waist and hook & eye closure.

Two piece dress of “invisible green” (very dark, almost black). A) Princess style bodice (polonaise) fitted over hips draped at sides into silk bow-shaped bustle in back. Front closes with brass ball buttons into high stand-up collar. Long straight sleeves with wide silk cuffs trimmed with brass buttons. B) Floor length skirt cut for bustle is pleated all around and edged with two flounces.

2-piece evening gown made of pink silk taffeta. Bodice (a) - pointed back and center waist. The waistline is slightly higher than the 'true waist'. Lined with cotton with light boning at the center front, the center back, and the side seams. Lining seams are whip-stitched down flat to cotton lining; small puffed sleeves, gathered to bodice with small box pleats - now crushed. Sleeves filled with embroidered lace netting. The center back closure of the bodice is spiral lacing - small handbound eyelets and original lacing tie present. Armscye and hem of bodice bound in a double row of small piping; machined seams. The four-point bow of taffeta at center bust - pinked edges / Van Dyke'd; two rows of graduated double-pinked trim across neckline - also Van Dyke'd pinking. Hand whip-stitched to the bodice. Bow has a small silk-pinked rosette in the center. Small hidden band of netting across neckline behind pinked trim - which has a drawstring passed through it; small hook and eye closures at top and bottom of the center back lacing. Skirt (b) - lined with horse hair interfacing netting 'gauze'. The skirt is made of 14 panels. 13 are gored while the center back panel is cut on grain. Bound at hem with twill tape dyed to match. Set in waistband with graduated double box pleats. Closure is on the left side. Pocket on the left side, just before closure. Inner seams are finished with a hand whip-stitch. Velcro has been added to the waist, along with modern cotton twill tape. The waist has been re-set at some point and brought in; double rows of graduated, double pinked trim, Van Dyke'd, in zig-zags across the skirt. Four-pointed bow across the skirt, with rosettes in the center. Has a specially made crinoline cage for the skirt - stored alongside hanging storage.

Entirely hand-stitched child's dress made of red wool. Small coat sleeves with three pointed bands trimmed in rows of black velvet strips at the cuffs. Three Jet beads at each band point. Piping along high round neckline and shoulder seams. Hooks and eyes closure at the center back. Completely lined with brown glazed cotton. Dress is twill cotton tape at interior waist for tying. Gussets added to skirt at each side. 2 Jet beads on each shoulder top.

2-piece blue day dress made of silk plaid. Bodice (a) - Basque; bell sleeves and peplum at waist. Sleeves and peplum have blue grosgrain ribbon trim. High round neckline. Sleeves are cut on bias and set in armscye with two rows of gathers - tiny little cartridge pleats or 'gauging'. Bodice lined with brown glazed cotton, while blue glazed cotton lines peplum. Hook and eye closure at center front, none missing. Three boning channels at center back but boning has been taken out or is missing. Machined seams. Inner seams are finished with quick hand whip-stitches. Piecing is present in shoulder and elbow. Piping lining waist at peplum, shoulder and armscye. Skirt (b) - full skirt lined with a blue glazed cotton. Deep hem. Lining is not attached to silk of skirt at hem. Waist has been re-set in simple gathers by machine to modern black cotton fabric. Seams of lining are hand-stitched and not finished. Made of seven straight panels. Modern plastic button closure. Pocket on right side of blue glazed cotton.

Child's dress of red wool, trimmed with black silk velvet ribbon. Bodice is lined with coarse off-white cotton, and the skirt with a finer one. Fastens down center back with black japanned buttons in black-thread buttonholes. Wide neckline, finished with black silk taffeta piping. (There is a tuck in back neckline on proper left side, sewn with white thread.) Short sleeves, trimmed with three rows of velvet ribbon; sleeve heads form the sides of the neckline. Unfitted bodice finished with black taffeta piping at waist. Unshaped skirt is gauged evenly to waistline, and trimmed with two rows of velvet ribbon near hem. Hand-sewn.

2-piece dress with petticoat. Bodice (a) - made of silk satin with gathered mono-bosom pigeon breast front. Puffed short sleeves trimmed in small gathers of cream silk voile. Silk voile trimming across wide scoop neckline. Waist has a horizontal bands of satin silk, slightly gathered. Center back closes with hook and eye. Some eyes are fabric, some are metal. Tension-closure hooks labelled "Cholls". Velvet magenta rosettes (three) close back waist band. Lined completely in silk ivory taffeta. Seven vertical bones across waistband, which is lined with a thick cotton twill in light brown. Taffeta ties at center back and center front neckline. Skirt (b) - ombre silk satin; made of 8 panels. Center front has two darts and lies flat while 7 back panels gathered in three rows of gathers. Unlined. Deep purple velvet flounce at hem, faced with shot twill matching ombre colors. Center back snap closure with hooks and eyes to attach to bodice; seams left unfinished. Petticoat (c) - made of silk taffeta in ivory. Four gored panels with two gusset inserts at hem. Knife pleats 9" deep hem, which are very dense. Darted around waist - no pleats or gathers. Machine-stitched. Hook and eye closure at the center back; unfinished interior seams. Petticoat is stored in a different location. Boxed, on Shelf 1 [Bay 217: Storage Room 2: John L. Wehle Gallery].

2-piece day dress made of silk taffeta. Bodice (a) - 3/4 sleeves. The center front closure is made up of 10 covered buttons, with two metal snaps. The bodice has lapels / revers with a long square neckline; the neckline and armhole openings are filled with pleated gauze; the bodice is made with ten gored panels. Lapels / revers and bottom of the hem of the bodice edged with cording. Magenta ribbons at the center front and cuffs of sleeves, and center back; two center back buttons; entirely lined with cotton broadcloth. cotton waist tape in the interior waist. Boning at center front and side panel seams. Skirt (b) - panels sewn by machine. The bottom hem is hand-turned. Knife pleats moving away from the center front. The center back bustle is gathered to the waist. The interior seams are unfinished. 3 silk flounces across the skirt, and hand-stitched to the skirt. The Interior is lined with crinoline gauze. The waist closure consists of a hook and eye. Flounce edge bound with cording; large silk taffeta bow in back with one large loop.

Entirely hand-stitched child's silk check dress with a dropped-waist. Slightly bent sleeves; tight tubes without cap. Sleeves have turn-up cuffs with machine-lace trim at cuff and hem of dress. Two horizontal tiers of ruffle are stitched to hem and cut on bias. Attachments are all hand-sewn. High round neckline finished with small pipping. Pocket on right hand side of dress in seam; dress has "princess seams" 11 Rounded metal buttons; painted blue; missing two buttons. Buttons function as CB closure to dress. Dress and sleeves are lined with glazed cotton. Bottom ruffle is stiffened with horsehair gauze.

Machine-stitched infant frock made of cotton with tucks and eyelet work across hem and sleeves.

Machine-stitched infant or child's frock made of cotton with a center back opening down it's length. Tucks across bodice yoke and flounced hem. Machine embroidery trim on cuffs and neckline.

Girl's dress is made of fine muslin. Embroidered skirt. Puffed sleeves. Embroidered netting Bertha across the neckline.

Young girls' cotton printed dress, in a deep maroon with tiny white polka dots. Machine-stitched with some hand finishing. High round neckline with stand collar. CB closure of buttons, 7 MOP buttons all the way down. Skirt is set low on hip with gathers - not stoked or stroked. CF panel flat, from neckline to skirt hem. Collar stand, wrist cuffs, and CF panel all feature an applied machined ribbon of white ground and red figures. It looks as though the skirt was removed, then basted back on without much skill. Long sleeves are full at sleeve cap and wrist.

Hand-stitched with unfinished interior seams 2-piece day dress made of brown alpaca wool bustle day dress. Bodice (a) - Basque. Closure of original 14 buttons down the center front. The buttons are made of carved wood with a floral design. High round collar, with a small stand. Bust improvers located on either breast. Narrow 'coat' sleeves, with deep pleated cuff. Fully lined in brown cotton twill. No stays were found in the bodice. Hand-stitched with unfinished interior seams. Skirt (b) - has side closure (left) with the pocket on the right side of the skirt. Closure is a hook and eye. The skirt is lined with thin brown cotton. The center front and sides of the skirt have a panel of dense ruching. The skirt-back bustle is achieved with an overhang of large gathered alpaca wool a la 'polonaise'. The skirt hem is finished with a deep row of pleating, and matching cuffs of sleeves.

Lingerie dress made of fine white cotton and machined lace insertions. Some embroidery done across the neckline and yoke area. High standing collar with metal stays on inside. Long straight sleeves that are relatively tight. Skirt flares around hem with gores and more lace insertion. Waist is at natural height. Small bosom gather in the center front. Center back closure made of snaps and hooks and eyes and a few button loops as well. Unlined. Inside the skirt, there is a panel that has been tucked horizontally (presumably for someone who was shorter than the original wearer). This tuck has been left in place.

Partly machine-stitched and hand-stitched 2-piece dress (with changeable bodices, 1 day and 1 evening) made of green silk. The day bodice is attached permanently to the skirt. Remanent green silk taffeta and 6 blue satin rosettes with glass rice beading are also present with the ensemble in the bag. Day Bodice (a) - high round neckline. The day bodice has full sleeves curved, slightly "coat sleeve" but a bit less full. The bodice has a straight waist, with the center front closure of hooks and eyes, and self-buttons (10). Small blue satin silk rosette at the center front where bodice and skirt meet. Blue stained silk striped made of fabric are sewn diagonally across the bust and shoulders to the center back. Both the center front and center back the stripes meet to form a point. Same blue satin silk stripes at the cuffs. The bodice has stays at the front side bust. The bodice is lined entirely with non-glazed natural cotton, also with front inner-lining flap closed at the center front with hooks and eyes. Sleeves are lined with the same natural slightly glazed cotton as the the sleeves of the evening bodice Skirt (b) - lined with the glazed brown cotton broadcloth that the evening bodice is lined with. Hem has 8" deep facing of coarse linen or cotton. Hem bound with matching blue / green binding tape. Evening Bodice (c) - extremely pointed in the center front and back. There is a lacing closure made of small hand-bound eyelets. The original blue lacing cord is still present. Bodice has short sleeves trimmed in blue silk satin rosettes with glass rice beading. Cording at neckline, armscye, and bodice hem. Neck opening in low and wide scoop across shoulders. The bodice is lined with glazed brown cotton broadcloth, with sleeves lined with a glazed cotton gauze in a natural tone. The lining of the bodice contains a waist tie of self-glazed brown cotton, which closes with hooks and eyes. Baleen boning at the center front, side, and the center back.

Two-piece bustle day dress in brown slightly ribbed silk. Almost entiely machine-stitched. Bodice: Cuirass bodice of shaped panels. Small peplum with CB pointed segments. CF closure of hooks and eyes, hidden by panel of ruching. Long narrow sleeves that are lsightly bend. Simple white braid at sleeve cuff and neck collar stand. Lined in a brown cotton twill. Skirt: same silk fabric, lined with brown glazed cotton, plain-weave. CF of skirt silk is puffed up in section to create bustle. Side back (left) closure, missing hooks and eyes. Brown plain weave cotton wasitband. hen ehavily faced with a heavy wegith glazed black cotton. Hem is bound in brown cotton twill tape. Hem has layer of knife-pleated silk, with another layer of crenalted panels on top.

Two piece dress of heavy copper silk foulard. a.) Fitted bodice with gathered yoke, longish points at center front and back; fastens up the front into narrow neckband. Long sleeves of moderate leg o' mutton form, cut narrow at the wrist. Neckband and cuffs trimmed with wide silk lace in matching gown. A frill of lace extends from underarms across the bust to front opening. b.) Floor length skirt with pleated fullness in back and slight train. Fitted over hips and gored to wide hemline. Hem trimmed with three narrow frills of self material Lace around collar is badly ripped; torn at cuff and other spots

Two piece dress of gray-green silk brocade in wave design, and gold lined with orange shot silk throughout. a.) Fitted bodice with puffed and gathered elbow length sleeves edged with deep lace flounce. V neck filled with lace cotton and pleated silk chiffon. Wide, pleated revers lined with gold foulard. b.) Straight skirt in front with long, full train, and high waist band of jeweled metallic gold lace. Label at bodice waist - Maison Oger & Cie - Robes et Manteaux 24 Avenue de Palena, Paris. The jeweled waist band was added at some later date. The silk balayeuse is loose. The back side of the skirt has been altered awkwardly.

Silk daydress with long sleeves, high round neckline, and full skirt with volume toward back. Long sleeves are full and "coat" - cut with curve, terminating in small faux-cuff of turn up fabric. CF closure of buttons covered in black velvet. One button has fallen off but is present with the dress. Bodice is lined with plain weave brown cotton and has stays across interior of waist. Underarms have tide lines. Skirt is full with big boxed pleats, lined with brown glazed cotton. Bottom hem has 6" wide strips of horsehair canvas, with hem bound with black twill tape. CF closure under bodice of buttons. Deep pocket of glazed cotton bag on right side. Dress fabric is a black and bronze/brown brocade featuring vertical black stripes with brown stripes in between, featuring black floral bouquets of roses, rose leaves, and parlor palm branches. Some wear to frabic above hem, and tide lines under arms.

Mostly machine-stitched little girl's day dress made of wool. The design consists of a brocade of leafy sprigs. Oxblood colored silk taffeta ruching is added down the center front, across hem at the bottom and the cuffs. Two silk taffeta ties in back. Binding of same silk taffeta at the neck opening, wrist and hem ruffles. Dropped waist hem is box pleated across the front. Knife pleats in back. Rounded coat sleeves. Wrists are filled with machined-laced lace tape. The center back opening has six buttonholes; all machined, but all buttons are missing. Hem is faced with a plain weave cotton, while the bodice is lined with a heavier weighted glazed cotton. For a fashionable little girl, emulating the styles of older women in the mid-1880s.

Mostly machine-stitched 2-piece dress made of burnt gold silk satin fabric. The internal seams are neatly finished by hand. Bodice (a) - square neckline that is missing a detail--stitches remain. The sleeves are stylized with diamond cutouts down long narrow sleeves. Sleeves end with metallic crochet frill and are slightly bent at the elbow. The bodice is lined and completed with a striped red, dark, and cream cotton sateen fabric. Waist tape in the bodice with hook and eye closure. The center front closure of the bodice with buttons, all buttonhole machined, with two-piece floral buttons. Skirt (b) - flat panels around the center front and side hips, with two folds at the center back knife pleats. Hook and eye closure. The skirt is unlined but has a hem about two inches deep.

2-piece day dress made of pale lavender cotton. Bodice (a) - pronounced pigeon breast or mono-bosom. Lined with light cotton fabric, with bones / stays at the center front, sides, and back. Hook and eye closure made of light cotton lining and lavender fabric. Lace tape inserts on bodice front and back, as well as on sleeves. Sleeves are 3/4 length with fullness throughout. Almost entirely machined, with some hand-finishing on the interior. Skirt (b) - flat in front and sides around the hips via the use of pleats that are sewn in place partly the way down. Past the hip, these pleats open to create volume and a slightly gathering or trained effect in the center back. The center back pleats are not sewn down, but rather hang loose from the waistband. Skirt is unlined, with a hem at the bottom. Turned under simply and machined down.

2-piece first-era bustle day dress made of striped silk taffeta and silk floral brocade. Striped silk taffeta is gold and blue pinstripe, while cocarde is gold / tan ground with blue sprigs. Bodice (a) - The center front closure has closely spaced white glass buttons. Bodice is shaped with darts and shaped panel pieces. Has 'new side' panel seams - under armscyes and up to shoulder. Sleeves are curved, ending in cuffs with frills of the silk brocade fabric. Short standing collar. Hem of bodice extends to reach the hips, ending in a corded edge of the striped taffeta. Back ends with a point. Stays all around torso in this piece, and waist tape on inside. Entirely lined with white plain weave cotton, including sleeves. Slight padding in bust and shoulder area. All major seams and buttholes machined, while interior seams are finished by hand. Skirt (b) - has a bustle and train. Silk taffeta in the pinstripe make up the bustle and side panels, while a center front panel of the silk brocade is present at the center front. The end in trimmed in a deeply pleated taffeta, which itself is trimmed on top with a row of ruched or smocked taffeta. Side panels are vertically lined with ruched taffeta. The hem is lined with a cotton tarlatan in a dark tan color, while the skirt train is lined with a plain open weave cotton fabric which is papery like. The upper skirt is lined in a glazed cotton plain weave fabric. Mostly machined with some interior hand-stitching.

2-pc day dress of sapphire blue vertical satin striped silk w/ brocaded brown bands separated by brick patterned bands, collar of tape & needle lace, applied fringed silk passementerie, entirely hand sewn originally c. 1854 w/ sleeves updated 1860s, bodice B 32”, W 24”, L 21”, skirt W 26”, L 42”, (minor shatter to CF placket, cuffs & Wband w/ few 0.25”-0.5” concealed holes, light underarm discoloration, 4” tear tulle collar, shatter to bodice lining, minor discoloration skirt, few missing closures, collar lining & Wband conserved) very good. Provenance: The Valentine Museum.

Child's ivory coat and dress ; maroon flower and leaf embroidery on dress cuffs and hem; 10 small maroon buttons on dress. Open front jacket has scalloped maroon trim on sleeve cuffs and around neck and down jacket front

2-piece lady's dress made of cotton. The pattern consists of small red check-printed cotton. Bodice (a) - buttons up and across the shoulder with 11 white buttons. Small peplum at the back of the bodice. Long sleeves. Skirt (b) - single-lined pocket. Small ruffle around the middle of the skirt

Equally machine-stitched and hand-stitched women's working dress made of cotton. Appears to have been adapted several times, at home by an amateur seamstress. Gathering across "infant waist" band - some gathering in front but most at sides and center back. The center front closure is of hook and eye at WB and upfront of the bust. Round neckline of medium depth. Pocket in skirt on the right-hand side. Sleeves are long and end gathered to a cuff. MOP button closures at cuff. Buttonholes at the cuff are hand-stitched. Slight gathering at sleeve caps. Some piecing at the center front sides above the waistband. The hem is about 5.5" and machine-stitched. Unlined.

2-piece child's dress made of silk. The pattern consists of red, gray, and green plaid.

Partly machine-stitched and hand-stitched women's working dress made of pink cotton or chambray fabric. Dress used for a housework dress. Possibly for a maid or servant. Double tucked deep hem at bottom of the skirt. The bodice is gathered slightly in front at the waist and to the shoulder yoke. The yoke comes to a point at the center back. High round neckline. Straight sleeves that end without cuffs. Wrist and the center front of bodice closure with MOP buttons. Buttonholes are hand-stitched. Sleeve caps have small puffs. The skirt lies almost flat at the center front and sides but is heavily gathered at the center back. Unlined.

Child's dress, cream background with tiny flower print. Square neck and short puff sleeves.

Women's dress made of brown print cotton. Long sleeve. The print consists of a brown background with rows of orange and cream-colored flowers. The bodice is set in a waistband and closes with a hook and eyes; a black velvet bow at the neck; caps on the shoulders with black velvet stripes, and black velvet cuffs. 3 black stripes of black velvet on the stand-up collar.

Dress made of white cotton.

Work dress made of brown plaid cotton. Long sleeves. 8 buttons. Mandarin collar. Remodeled with ruffled hem in 1880's, stand up collar. High neck. Buttons down the front of the bodice. Gathered skirt with ruffled hem.

2-piece dress made of green plaid silk. The skirt is speculated to have been remade in the late 1860s to update the style. The fabric may be from the 1850s.

Purple dress with green and beige stripes made of silk taffeta. Two stripes of black velvet at both cuffs. Long sleeved. V-neck plum colored trim shoulders to waist. Seven circular black velvet buttons from waist to neck. Attached at waist with hook and eye.

2-piece dress made of black and green stripe silk taffeta. Rounded, high collar. Fringe trim at the shoulders, back of waist, and cuff. Hook and eye closure from neck to waist on the bodice.