Hand spun, possibly, and hand woven bleached Z cotton singles warp (which kinked up a lot) and unleached Z singles. very fine and smotth linnen weft. 48 PPI X 48 WPI. Mid M's and O's expertly woven. Handwoven cotten tape in center top. aprears to have ink stains, possibly writing but can't really ell. initials in center top, tan silk, cross stitched A + T6

Handwoven bleached linen.

Cotton Z singles warp, 24 EPI. unbleached linen Z singles weft. 22 PPI. Gooseye threading, not broken no borders, mill spunm hand woven, narrow hem top, 1 tape loops at corners. red cross stitch B K N. Bottom has added white linen strip, fringed.

Germand Steiff Teddy bear with moveable limbs and head, with cardboard disk joints. Excelsior in stuffing. Honey color or white mohair fut. Shoe-button (?) eyes, 4 lines of tan emboirdered "claws" and horizontally embroidered nose. Original tan felt foot pads. NO marks. Hole spotted behind in left ear, at top near edge. Made of mohair matching coats in collections - G2004.179 & G2008.006

Dressmaker-made of heavy genuine nankeen, entirely hand stitched. Trimmed with fine white cotton cord and buttons made of self-covered discs of bone (probably) a) Jacket has nicely arched turnover collar with tiny revers, front closed with concealed hooks and eyes. Long sleeves full at top, tight lower arm with pointed turnback cuffs. Fairly high pointed waist, short tails in back. Rows of buttons down CF, and from shoulder to waist, in arc across back shoulder area, on cuffs and at tails, as in men’s wear. Trimmed at all edges with cord. Body lined with white cotton. b) Skirt quite flat and smooth across the front, wide pleats from side toward back. 2” self waistband with 2 hooks and eyes. No evidence of bodice or straps to keep it at high waist level—maybe pinholes. Shaped pocket flaps toward back, with buttons, as in men’s wear. 4” hem edged with cord. Presumably floor length, no train. c) Petticoat flat and smooth across the front, pleated at the sides, densely gathered in back, narrow waistband, long 1/2” cotton twill tape ties. 3” hem. 2” ± shorter than skirt

Full-size umbrella made from black ribbed fabric, most likely a cotton rep. Wooden carved handle, with tassel attached by thick braid in dark brown. Black painted metal workings inside, with long black metal finial, suggesting walking stick use as well. No tears or holes in fabric.

Umbrella with green silk PW cover with white and yellow striped borders. Turned, jointed wood stick. Large brass ferrule, antler handle. Pewter rib tips. 8 25.5” whalebone ribs. Brass ring on silk strip attached to center of a rib. 6” heavy brass runner. Steel stretchers; no top notch. No leather washer. Cord through hem. 34.5” overall.

The umbrella frame is made of 8 long black-painted cane ribs with hand-forged steel pitchfork stretchers pinned through the ribs, and a black lacquered steel slider and top notch. The ribs have hand-carved tapered ends, each with a pair of drilled holes above a carved groove above a rounded tip, to which the cover was sewn. The other ends are tapered to fit with what look like cast caps with a hole on the top, through which wire is run to hold the ends in place in the top notch. About 6" above the tips, there is a worn spot on each rib which suggests that there might have been a cord worked around the circumference to prevent it from blowing inside out. The slider is about 1-1/2" long. If there was a ferrule on the 2" spike, it is gone - most likely a cheap steel or tin cap. The handle is curved with the end carved to look like a hound's head, and painted with rings with dots inside.

Entirely hand-stitched boy’s undershirt made of cotton. Straight sleeves with selvage 'hem'. Straight body. No gores. Gussets. Some gatherings are at the center back and the center front. 1” binding for yoke. Front placket with 1 plain China button. Tucks are taken at the front and back of each shoulder.

Entirely hand stitched white cotton. More or less tubular, pieced at seam for more underarm girth (?). Embroidered with white cotton French knots and satin stitch forming dainty diagonal meanders sprouting little fronds, space between specked with dainty florets. Separate cufflike extension having narrow borders of French knot guilloches separated from field by fine pulled thread work. Field embellished with hollow bobbinet-filled buds trailing sharply curved leafy steams. Still bears thread traces from armscye seams.

Hand stitched sheer white cotton undersleeves. Moderately full with 1” cuff band and deep frilled cuff. Band and cuff hand embroidered with white cotton in satin stitched, seed stitch and eyelets. Band with tilted cartouches forms edge; ferns and exotic flowers with buds in field. Simple needle lace and pulled thread work inside flower centers. Selvage turned over top to form narrow hem Hand stitched sheer white cotton undersleeves. Moderately full with 1” cuff band and deep frilled cuff. Band and cuff hand embroidered with white cotton in satin stitched, seed stitch and eyelets. Band with tilted cartouches forms edge; ferns and exotic flowers with buds in field. Simple needle lace and pulled thread work inside flower centers. Selvage turned over top to form narrow hem

Hand stitched on fine sheer cotton undersleeves. Upper part is a different, coarser cotton with raw edges at top. Lower ends slightly flared, scalloped with white satin stitched stems curved to fit along the edges; little maple leaves with sections of seed stitch and florets that look like miniature daffodils. Edged with real bobbin lace frill.

Undersleeves, french cuffs White cotton, tiny machine stitched hem at top; running stitched seams; machine top-stitched French cuffs with 3 handstitched buttonholes and slightly iridescent glass buttons each. Cuff edged with chemical lace. About 13” long.

Undersleeves, windowpane dimity Entirely hand stitched undersleeves of white windowpane dimity, heavier piece forming upper half. Medium width. Cuff formed of 2 rows of fine white bud-vine embroidered insertion. Handmade [?] lace edging. Pairs of tiny linen braid loop and MOP button. Hemmed top edge.

Entirely hand stitched sheer muslin, “dotted Swiss” type. 1/2” casing around top, 28” circumference; slit opening at top. Gathered into narrow turnback cuff of Ayrshire type embroidery with scalloped edges. Tiny white china button and loop closure, slit.

Long close-fitting cotton net undersleeves, 2 seams. Narrow hem at top. Bottoms finished to look like operable cuffs formed of Val (seems like real lace) type insertion bordered with narrow Ayrshire type insertion; edged with simple Val lace, including vertical piece along what is supposed to be the end of the cuff.

Entirely hand stitched sheer cotton. Elbow length undersleeves with 2” cuffs. Embroidered with white silk twist. On outside of sleeve are two lengthwise stripes of double rows formed of coarse fagotting, each terminating in a Teneriffe lace wheel; an additional wheel is between the two stripes. The cuff edges are finished with similar fagotting and zigzag stitched border. Mother of pearl button at lower edge of cuff. Casing with narrow silk ribbon at top edge. The whole is rather crudely made by comparison with the usual 19th century standard.

Hand stitched on fine sheer cotton undersleeves. Upper part is a different, coarser cotton with raw edges at top. Lower ends slightly flared, scalloped with white satin stitched stems curved to fit along the edges; little maple leaves with sections of seed stitch and florets that look like miniature daffodils. Edged with real bobbin lace frill.

Wide sleeves, dotted ‘Swiss’ with plain organdy tops. Gathered into narrow embroidered Ayreshire cuffs edged with narrow lace, with pairs of buttonholes for links.

Entirely hand stitched fine cotton undersleeves, medium full, completely plain. Narrow cuff with pair of buttonholes to receive cuff links or ribbons [?].

Pair of black netted undersleeves; embroidery on cuffs of circles with a flower inside; black lace trim

Lady's black silk crape mourning veil. Rectangular in shape 26"w X 31"l, with deep hems on either end, approx. 3". MUST WEAR GLOVES AND FACE MASK WHEN HANDLING.

Veil of black silk net lace. Most of veil is only embellished with single-flower sprigs. Bottom has a register of four large motifs centered on a three-lobed cluster of leaves, with leafy and floral vines above and below them. Top edge is made in very small scallops, while bottom edge has much larger ones, each with a three-lobed foliate motif in it; these motifs are connected with slim vines that hold pomegranates.

Black cotton machine net bonnet veil with black silk* needlerun peonies. Scalloped edges with applied picots; peony in each one. Leaflets scattered over ground. Darning technique. Casing for drawstring. 40x40.

Cream silk gauze weave with wide satin borders, fine self fringe. Brocade motifs on nearly transparent ground. Five tall, vaguely paisleyesque floral motifs across short end, smaller buds arranged on field. Top has self casing with cream silk taffeta Ribbon drawn through

Black silk plain weave veil with 8” opaque bottom border, 3” side border, and 1/2” border/casing for silk ribbon drawstring at top.

White silk (?) bobbinet with embroidered bouquets forming border along bottom edge; scalloped edges embroidered with single florets. Casing with narrow ivory silk PW ribbon at top

White net with white embroidered stylized carnationsand vines. Stars in field. Scalloped edge with single carnations in each one

Black speculated silk net short veil with casing across top; black silk embroidered motifs such as a single flower across panel with smaller flowering vine across bottom; small vine along each side; little sprigs scattered over ground.

Bonnet veil of green silk leno gauze 27” square with narrow satin borders woven on three sides and thin fringe at bottom. Casing on top retains original or old elasticized drawstring presently knotted in a peculiar manner so one knot permits the bight to slip through til its own knot stops the motion.

Black net veil with casing at top and 4 typical floral sprays across for border. Smaller ones form scalloped edge on three sides. About 43” sqaure although it looks long and narrow. May be mohair or wool of some kind

Fine silk gauze bonnet veil with tall floral sprays forming border across bottom. Side and bottom edges scalloped to conform to motifs. top has casing with original picot-edged ribbon drawstring. About 3’ wide by 4’ long.

Very large green silk gauze veil with casing in top containing original green ribbon. Dense, deep border of sprays of exotic flowers; rather large and closely spaced small flowers in field. Scalloped edges on three sides.About 46” wide x 50” long

Bonnet veil of cotton machine net with embroidered leaf border above scalloped edge; border along bottom of sprays of roses and buds; lustrous outline thread. Casing along top edge. Fluoresces (modern detergent)

Short bonnet veil of off-white machine net with narrow borders on the bottom and sides, and another wider one of a simple floral vine at the bottom, of Honiton applique motifs. White silk drawstring in top casing.20” high x 40” wide

Black silk crepe mourning veil. Heavy crepe texture with more opaque side borders and deeper bottom border. Selvage on top and bottom, no casing. Hand sewn 1/4” hems on sides.38” wide x 44” long

Black silk organza mourning veil with wide woven satin borders at sides and bottom, the bottom with small hand stitched hem; the top with a narrow casing for a black silk satin ribbon which is too short to allow the veil to lie flat. 27” long, 34” wide.

BONNET VEIL, BLACK EMBROIDERED PAISLEYS Black silk Fond Simple machine net bonnet veil; added picot edges; tamboured sprigs, paisley motifs, arranged across bottom; widely scalloped edges; top edge not finished as well, retains gathering thread in places. 37 x 36 Labors/Love, pp 190-93; Bath: Needlework, pp 306-8.

BONNET VEIL, BLACK EMBROIDERED ROSES Black bonnet veil, silk machine fond simple. Embroidered with black shiny thread so densely that it's hard to tell if it's all tamboured or also some satin... Applied picot edge to scalloped edges, top stitched as casing. Base has rose motif border; 4 larger rose sprays for main border(reversed CF?) Jacquard? 38 Earnshaw: Fashion, p77; Labors: pp190-94

Christening veil made of silk bobbinet lace with needle run leaf border design in linen or silk. Scalloped buttonhole stitched edges. 24” square.

Visite of black ribbed silk, unlined, trimmed with black glass beads and black silk lace. Standing collar, covered with lace, and surrounded with black glass beaded fringe. Fastens internally with black silk waist tape and externally with hooks and eyes down center front. Interior also has black silk taffeta-covered elastic bands on either side to hold silk close to the body, black silk satin ribbon facings, and satin ribbon binding the seam allowances. At bottom of center back, cut with a reverse box pleat to allow for flaring out above bustle. Trimmed down long front, side fronts, side backs, and lower edge with premade black glass beaded trim in serpentine pattern; lower edge is also trimmed with lace, and at bottom of points in front with black silk ribbon. Machine sewn, with trim added by hand.

Visite of black ribbed silk, lined with black silk taffeta. Standing collar trimmed with black silk lace and covered with premade black glass bead trim in repeating floral pattern; black lace extends down briefly from either side of opening below collar, and then down proper left side of center front opening (hook and eye closure). Front extends into two long points, echoed in beaded trim coming down from shoulders, and accentuated with single beaded motif with beaded fringe at point. Proper right shoulder has fringed beaded trim, like an epaulette. Black lace runs around bottom. Black silk-covered elastic band runs from side to side at elbow height; black silk grosgrain waist tape. Machine sewn.

Visite of brown silk satin with repeated scallop-shell motifs in uncut silk velvet, lined with red silk satin, and edged with a looping dark brown silk chenille trim. Standing collar; gathered over shoulders. The visite is cut with curved seams down each side of the front to allow for arm movement, and each seam is open at the bottom, with an untrimmed panel of silk to allow for overlap. Each opening has a satin strap attached to it, the strap on the left side with a portion of elastic at the end. Machine sewn.

Visite of black ribbed wool, unlined, edged with a trim of black glass beads and black silk braid and with black silk fringe. Turn-down collar (fastening with hook and eye); front extends to knee level and is trimmed with a double row of trim and fringe. Machine sewn.

Entirely machine-stitched sport’s waistcoat made of pale chamois leather and lined with cotton. Five cellulose acetate buttons in a pale faux-horn color. Part of Abercrombie & Fitch's early sportswear and recreational wear line. Most likely for hunting or outdoor pursuits.

Man’s vest of black silk satin. Low neckline with wide shawl collar, wider toward the bottom. Three welt pockets, round bottom. Double breasted, eight self covered buttons. Lined with plain white cotton, backed with black or very dark brown glazed twill cotton. Adjustment strap with black lacquered buckle in back, “1855” stamped on buckle. Fronts are lightly padded; front bottom is faced with black leather One button missing; other buttons are fairly worn; leather is worn

Berlin waistcoat made of quilted diamond cotton. Design consists of a rust color background decorated with a black diamond pattern with turquoise centers.

Entirely hand-stitched child's waistcoat made of cotton. Single-breasted. Pointed bottom, slightly notched narrow shawl collar meeting halfway down the chest. Two wide welt pockets at the waist neatly worked into the design of the fabric. Black silk velvet with pairs of blue ribbed satin vertical stripes, crossed by pairs of banded red/yellow stripes. Seven self-buttons - bone molds. Leather facing to front hem; lined with slightly glazed ivory cotton cambric; fronts lightly padded. The back is twilled glazed brown cotton. Wide straps across back with 3 pairs of brass eyelets laced with original black-covered brown plied cotton laces with one original brass tag remaining. Tom Shaw: leather lower front facing. Brass lacing tab eyelets. Interior padding. Longer waist.

Entirely machine-stitched waistcoat made of white cotton Pique Marseilles. Fabric is weave pattern of a large plaid - making this waistcoat most likely from the 1860s. Single-breasted. Closure with removable buttons (5). All buttons missing from eyelets. Three welted pockets, slightly slanted. The center front is slightly pointed with small double point in front. Cotton backing and lining with two buckle straps in back. Notched shawl (not a true notched lapel as it is made of one piece).

Waistcoat made of cotton sateen. Machine-sittiched main seams, with minimal hand-stitching on interior. Evening with long shawl lapels of medium depth. Double-breasted with removable (not present) buttons on either side. Two rows of three buttons. Two slit pockets. Back and lining of same striped and slightly ribbed cotton. Buckled straps in back but missing the buckle.

Entirely machine-stitched waistcoat made of black and white striped cotton. Single-breasted. 5 buttons all present of carved mother of pearl. Removable buttons with pins. 4 welted and slanted pockets in front. Double-pointed hem at the center front. Lined and backed with cotton broadcloth. Collarless, with a deep V opening in the front. Straps in the back for buckle.

Entirely machine-stitched waistcoat made of white cotton jacquard fabric with blue diamond dots. Single-breasted. Possibly a brocade. Faux-notched lapel. Five buttons, all missing. Eyelets and buttonholes present and intact. Cotton backing and lining. Four pockets all slanted and parallel with hem. Pointed center front hem, with pronounced double-point at bottom. Interior pocket is in the left breast.

Entirely machine-stitched waistcoat made of blue and white woven cotton check fabric. Single-breasted with row of five buttons (removable). Waistcoat comes together with very pronounced double-point in the center front with button band in the center front to achieve this double-point. Four pockets all welted and slanted parallel to hem slant. No collar present. Backing and lining of fine cotton broadcloth.

Waistcoat made of floral cotton 'pigskin' pique fabric. Double-breasted waistcoat missing one button. 7 (out of 8) metal basketweave buttons. Brass. Deep and wide shawl collar. Two welt pockets-two in front parallel with the floor and one left breast pocket slashed and slanted (parallel with hem). Cotton lining and backing. The back strap missing a buckle-no ties.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of silk with a figured floral sprigs pattern. Single breasted, with six single buttons on right made of wood or possibly carved nut. Shawl lapel is shallow and high. The center front has a pointed waist. Two pockets without flaps in front, parallel with ground (not bottom of waistcoat). Lining and backing of plaid broadcloth cotton. It has been widened at some point, as waistcoat back, lining, and collar indicate the addition of fabric. Back has two cotton ties for tightening. No interior pockets.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's waistcoat made of black silk velvet. Lined with 2 kinds of white cotton and backed with a tan cambric. Two pairs of ties in the back made of handwoven cotton / linen. Single-breasted with flat buttons covered with what is speculated to be twilled silk / mohair fabric backed with what looks like a leather grommet through which cloth is pulled to form a shank. Closes from the neck down, the bottom edge is slightly pointed and seems to fall at the normal waist, small turn-over collar. Front edges and collar edged with narrow braid. Long false pocket welts placed high and level. Large armscyes. The shoulder seam falls well behind the shoulder.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of Camlet (presumably mohair on a silk or cotton wrap) with black / ivory / green / red weft bands on ivory ground. Short; straight form, large armscyes, single breasted. Standing collar with slight notch, cut to align with body stripe pattern. Wide, very high pocket welt on either side, from side seam to near front; angled side edges, grain put at right angles to body. Back is heavy unbleached cotton with a pair of tabs having 6 pairs of eyelets and original plain woven linen tape ties in place. Lined with plain woven unbleached cotton. Nine opalescent glass beadlike buttons with a cotter-pin like shank run through the glass, topped with a raised checkerboard patterned disk, gilt brass or base metal.

Waistcoat made of heavily lattice-textured black silk and wool with occasional fine red wefts and green flecks. Double-breasted with 4 angled welt pockets. No collar, slightly angled. Slightly pointed waist. Lined with simple white cotton cambric. Backing is speculated to be a silk / cotton blend, golden brown with faint red stripes. Back straps with old black lacquered buckle. 8 buttons with slotted backs which appear to be made of papier-mâché although they feel like a ceramic material. Molded with red and green sections and then painted black.

Man's waistcoat of brown wool with silk brocade in silver floral pattern. Lined with brown glazed cotton, with front hem facing and back of waistcoat of darker brown cotton glazed. Entirely hand-stitched. Back buckle on strap in CB. Single-breasted with, with 6 buttonholes (hand-finished), only 3 buttons left. Covered in brown silk. Shawl collar, high on chest near neck. Two pockets on either lower breast, with one left breast pocket upper. Waistcoat comes to slight point at CF hem, with slight flare at waist. Interfacing in chest are, but not quite, padded.

Patchwork waistcoat made of cotton. Double-breasted with covered buttons (16-all intact). Two outer waist pockets. Standing collar with pointed revers. Patchwork consists of printed cotton diamonds, top-stitched together in an English method. Cotton back and lining. Four cotton twill tape back ties. The patchwork is mirrored on either breast. Revers and front bottom hem are faced with patchwork. The center front meets at a gentle point.

Hunting waistcoat made of bright yellow wool broadcloth. Double-breasted. 8 brass buttons with fox head on each. Keyhole buttonholes. Original lacing at the center back. 4 pockets in the front, 2 pockets with faux flaps, and 2 welted chest pockets; no interior pockets; medium-length shawl lapel. Lined with cotton twill sateen. The back is lined with cotton broadcloth. Rounded 'clipped' hem. For a portly gentleman.

Man’s waistcoat made of green velvet. 10 small metal buttons. 2 watch-pockets. Black cotton back with laces for fitting.

"Entirely hand sewn? black satin. DB, low, wide shawl collar. Self buttons. Strap (inked inside “Wilson Hunt”) with heavy black laquered buckle. Watch pocket, darts through pockets. Padded front, curved side seams. Slightly curved bottom, slit in back. Seams and pockets topstitched, fine cording in edges.Came with snuff box 92.050.2 in the pocket."

Waistcoat made of white cotton dimity or diaper with small gold-colored brocade figure design. Shawl collar widening toward the bottom. 3 pockets. Cotton lining and back. Cotton strap with blued steel handmade buckle in back. Place inside the front lining where padding could be inserted.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's waistcoat made of silk brocade with a tiny lattice figure. Lined and backed with cotton. Laced back (laces gone) with 3 pairs of holes. Shawl collar with a small notch. Wide neckline. Single-breasted; 6 self-covered buttons. 3 pockets. The top one is high, small, and diagonal. Collar. Welts and edges piped in black.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of white dimity. Printed in reds, tans, and black with a paisley design. 3 pockets. Cotton back. Missing buckle / straps. 6 vegetable ivory buttons. Has a place for padding. Shawl collar wider toward the bottom. Slight curve at the bottom edge.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of white dimity. Printed with a tan ground with red / brown copper engraved flower in reserve, and vertical robin's-egg blue stripes 2” apart. Straps in back. Buckle gone. 8 turquoise glass 'jewel' waistcoat buttons. 2 pockets. Shawl collar. Round bottom.

Boy’s waistcoat, entirely hand stitched; brown silk satin with blue brocade flowers (nicotiana?); 2 pockets; single breasted; curved front, 5 tiny self-buttons; shawl collar; brown twilled cotton backing with 2 pairs of brown linen ties; lined with white cotton. Edged with very fine black piping. Early (?) repairs to frayed surface inside. Inked inside: T.B. Garland. / New York / #3827

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made by midnight blue silk voided velvet with a tan leaf motif. Lined with cotton. Padded chest. Brass plated buckle on strap with the date stamped 1854. Double breasted. Curved hem. Low curved shawl collar. Watch pocket. Leather binding on inner front hem. For a larger man.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of cream-colored cotton silk brocade with brown willows and seaweed. Linen back and lining. Tin-plated steel buckle on the back. MOP buttons with 4 holes- seem original. Double-breasted. Buttons angled toward the center. Padded at the front; mostly at the upper chest. 3 pockets.

Entirely machine-stitched waistcoat made of black satin brocade. Rust supernovae with geometric-meander motif Lined with buff cotton. Cotton back. 3 pockets. Rather narrow lapel. Black lacquered buckle on rear belt. Double-breasted. Satin covered buttons. Padded front. Leather facing inside front hem.

Entirely machine-stitched waistcoat made of cotton brocade. Design consists of crossed bar motif. Lined with white cotton. Metal buckle and strap on back. 3 pockets, no padding. High narrow shawl collar, original grayish glass buttons. Metal plate. Came in box labeled something indicating it to be 1852 wedding vest which seems not too likely.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of linen. Lined with yellow / ivory finely striped pina or pineapple cloth MID. 3 angled welt pockets. No darts. Strap in back with 2 part tinned steel buckle. Single breasted. Little self covered buttons with bone disc inside. Wide opening. High, narrow shawl collar. Pointed bottom edge.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of creamy white fine silk floral brocade. Shaped waist. SB, 7 self covered buttons, armhole and SF darts, 3 pockets; shawl collar; well padded front, strap with brass buckle; ties across shoulder blade area; signed in ink inside “Newton.” Cotton lining, back. SIgned in pencil inside strap, “Ainslie”

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of white cotton pique; pigskin texture. Wide shawl collar. Single-breasted. Self-buttons, no lower one. Welt pockets. Smaller ditto watch. Underarm darts. Fine topstitching. Plackets for ties in the back. Cotton back with light padding or interfacing. Ties gone.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of creamy white silk brocade floral pattern. Narrow low notched collar. Deep-set armscyes. Slightly pointed waist. Single-breasted. Wide curved welt pockets on either side. Smaller ditto watch. Ties in the back. Cotton back, padded chest. Narrow topstitched margin in the collar and the center front. Self buttons. Superb finishing.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of tan figured silk brocade. Tan and ivory, floral buta motifs on the wavy ground. Fairly long-waisted and straight with a downward curved bottom edge. Shawl collar. Single-breasted. 3 pockets with narrow welts. Darts at the armscyes. Well-padded chest. Topstitched at armscyes and back side seam. Lined with polished cream cotton. Tan twill polished cotton back. Strap with brass buckle. 6 heavy brown glass jewel buttons. Scalloped drum and floral escutcheon secured with rings. Superb tailoring.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of black silk brocaded with small blue florets. The back is brown glazed cotton, lining white. High shawl collar. 6 small self-buttons in angled rows. The upper buttonhole was omitted. Lightly padded front. Upper pocket slanted. Widely spaced 2 pr PW tape ties in back. No darts. Pointed bottom edge.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of black satin. 3 pockets. Shawl collar. Small self-domed buttons. Padded, shaping dart beneath lower pockets. Black leather facing at the bottom. White PW cotton lining. Tinned steel buckle. Notched back edge. Slightly curved front edge. Brown cotton back. Note in pocket giving expenses of Alfred's trip. 9/30/60 - $120.40.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of black silk satin. Small self-buttons. Shawl collar that narrows to a point at the bottom. Pointed hemline. Watch pocket. Lined white PW cotton and backed with brown PW cotton. Flaps with 4 pr eyelets threaded with single brown PW cotton tape. Padded front.

Entirely hand stitched waistcoat of blue satin with lt blue brocade curly leaves. SB. Shawl collar. Top-stitched edges. Watch pocket; wedge shaped pocket welts. Curved bottom, curved slit. Small self buttons. Curved side seams,padded front. Back brown twilled cotton; strap with heavy black buckle.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of white cotton sateen. Narrow shawl collar. High placement. Pointed bottom. 6 MOP (speculated to be not original) buttons. Slightly curved pockets. Watch pocket. Lined with white cotton. Slit in back, two twill tape ties attached to back. Very blued.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of white fancy woven cotton (dimity). Purple roller-printed figures of sailor astride yardarm with arms folded across his chest. Double-breasted. Curved front hem. Wide armholes. Tinned buckle stamped on the back strap. No padding. Lined and backed with PW white cotton. Buttons gone.

Waistcoat, entirely hand stitched; SB; shawl collar. Black silk satin with PW white cotton lining, dk brown back. Notched back with wide strap, black lacquered buckle. Wide pockets, curved watch pocket. Long waisted, slightly curved seams, tiny brocade buttons. Heavy poadding shoulder to hem. Leather facing. Note included: “My grandmother made this vest for my grandfather for their wedding in 1882. Notice the hand done buttonholes. Sarah Hornsby for George C. White”

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of cream silk brocade; small wild rose design. Very light padding. Edges finished with fine cream twisted silk cord. Silk topstitched everywhere else. 5 domed silk thread buttons. Shawl collar. Straight sides with a slanted bottom edge. 3 pockets. The welts are slightly slanted. Fine white PW cotton lining and back. Strap in the back with a blued or very tarnished brass buckle. Slit with curved edges.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of ivory silk faille with widely spaced, ivory silk, scattered small embroidered floral sprays. Cut with a slight flare at the hip. 3 pockets. Narrow curved slits. Pointed bottom. Standing collar. White glazed cotton lining with interior left breast pocket, and cotton back. Narrow straps in the back, with one brass eyelet, and twill tape tie. Domed silk thread-covered buttons reach part way to the collar. Overall, appears to stand well away from the chest.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of creamy white satin on the front, for the back and lining made of white plain weave cotton. Medium high opening. Shawl collar with slight points. Two level pockets with welts. Single-breasted. 6 small self buttons (Actually some are brocade patterned). Moderately pointed bottom edge. Straight back edge. Straight side seam. Comparatively short-waisted. 2.5” high flaps with 3 pairs of brass eyelets and handwoven black and yellow tape in back. Tambored vine-and-flower motif embroidered along edge of collar, hem, CF opening on each side, and pocket welts in light and medium pink and green silk.

Mostly hand-stitched waistcoat made of white cotton pique. Double row of machine topstitching around armscye fronts. DB, deep opening, and shawl collar. 3 welt pockets with diagonal ends. Upper one diagonal placement. Opening in plain white cotton lining for chest padding. Back is made of the same fabric. Straps for buckle (missing). Six translucent white glass dome buttons (brass back plates and U rings) on ring holders.

Machine-stitched waistcoat made of black silk with small brocade leaflets. Single breasted. 5 flat self buttons. Rather narrow shawl collar opening medium height, width toward bottom. Pointed bottom. Tapered effect with darts through almost horizontal welt pockets. Watch pocket. Padding in front. Straight back edge. Lined with off white twill cotton. Back is brown twill glazed cotton. Extending across side back from the seam, just below each armscye is a 5” brown twill tape reinforcement attached with wide herringbone stitching straddling the tape. Wide straps in back (hand-stitched). Black lacquered buckle with molded message. Top stitched on collar and welts. Double rows around armscyes.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of cotton. Straight across bottom, square, and hip length. Thin camleteen. Buff with dark brown, red and pale mauve widely spaced crosswise stripes. Standing ‘shawl’ collar. SB with 10 small self buttons on right side. Wide, level pocket welts on bottom. Plain weave unbleached cotton back and lining. 8.5” flaps with 4 hand-stitched eyelets in back for ties. Deep armscyes. MID fine mohair (very fine scales) weft on cotton warp. Slight rib.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of matelassé cotton. The design is of rosebud motifs in soft red and gold within big and small cartouches. Medium opening. Medium shawl collar with slightly greater width toward the bottom. 5 flat self buttons. Shaped side seams, sit a little over the waist with a downward curve in the front. Side darts from the bottom. 2 narrow pocket welts from side seams. small same on proper left. All edges are topstitched. Lining and back of white plain woven cotton, lining left free of front armscyes for removable padding. No pleat in the back. The bottom edge is virtually straight across. Straps extend from seams, one has a brass buckle.

Entirely hand stitched fine buff camleteen with pairs of brocaded silk weft bands: a narrow red leaflike motif with tiny chartreuse accent squiggle adjoining a buff, tightly meandering vine. SB, high opening with standing collar. Wide and short shape overall with wide armscyes; slightly downward point in front; flat self buttons only from center to hem. Two long, slightly trapezoidal pocket welts from side seam. Back and lining of stout, unbleached PW cotton. Small back, no pleat, straight bottom. Narrow flaps of glazed cotton having 4 hand stitched eyelets attached on either side of CB. Edges finely topstitched.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of brown figured cotton with two pockets with narrow straight welts. Slightly shaped at waist with curved bottom edge and small gusset below pocket. Back strap with black lacquered buckle on back. Shawl collar is widest at midpoint. Embroidered with white cotton on collar and front edges. Satin stitched floral sprays and white top stitching. Lined and backed with white cotton. No padding. Four tiny ‘waistcoat jewel’ buttons with white glass centers with gold stone marbling set in fluted brass rims. Button have solidly attached shanks, brass backs, and no marks.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of white Manchester goods (figured dimity) with a small diamond-cross-hatch design. High opening with a narrow shawl collar wide at the base. Single-breasted. 6 self-buttons. 2 wide welt pockets above a gently curved bottom edge. 1 small welt pocket on proper left chest. Plain weave cotton lining and back. Strap in the back for a buckle. High back vent. Straight side seams. No darts. Widely-set topstitching around the side and armscyes, standard on the edges.

Entirely machine-stitched waistcoat made of white Manchester goods (figured dimity) with a small design of textured diagonal grid lines filled alternately with what look like tiny leaves and stems. High opening with narrow shawl collar wider at the base. Single-breasted. 6 MOP buttons and handmade buttonholes. Side seams are curved, and there is a long dart angled from the side front up toward the center about 2” about the pocket welt, which is a little curved. The bottom front corners are rounded. Line of topstitching is about 1/2” from the edges. Plain weave white cotton lining and back. Strap for the buckle. No back vent.

Entirely hand stitched waistcoat made of wool matelasse. Violet lattice or grid design formed by shaded, leafy vine; spaces filled with rough bark-like texture. Single breasted, 7 self buttons. Medium high opening with shawl collar widest at midpoint. Pointed center front bottom. 3 slightly curved welt pockets. Long dart in side fronts; shaped side seams. Self buttons. Front padding is attached by self button. Thin cotton lining and back. Strap with thin, tin plated steel buckle. Found with two small bits of quill (pens?) in pocket.

Entirely hand-stitched waistcoat made of thin cotton madras. The pattern is soft blue and tan ikat stripes on white ground. Lined and backed with homespun cotton MID. Straight sides and bottom. Double-breasted. High opening with double lapels. No (or half) collar. Wide pocket welts, only proper right is a pocket. Self-covered flat bone buttons. Reinforcement bands under each row of buttons. One pair of reinforced eyelets in the back.

Entirely hand stitched printed cotton fabric with red peppers on cream ground. Single breasted with self covered buttons, short standing collar and angled welt pockets. No back belt or ties and deeply set armscyes and angled shoulder seams that cause the waiscoat to ride up toward the ears which seems to assist the stand of the collar. Plain weave cotton back and lining.

Entirely hand-stitched little boy’s waistcoat made of cotton. The front is horizontally striped with narrow bands of red / green on cream with graduated bands of what is now pale pink. The back shoulder and collar facing are pieced green striped mohair. The back and lining are two kinds of coarse cotton, pieced. Small standing collar. Short boxy shape. Pocket welts on the bias, parallel to the straight bottom. 5 simple globular glass buttons with plate backing and a bit of red coloring at the base. No button at the top.

Entirely hand-stitched men's waistcoat made of thin white silk or cotton with horizontal figured bands in front, PW cotton back, and lining. Standing collar and wide lapels. Double-breasted, the top 2 buttonholes are left unopened. Collar, pocket welts, and edges banded with chartreuse silk ‘spiders’ centered with a single tarnished silver spangle. The border is edged with a chain-stitched jagged line of silver thread and pink silk thread. More ‘spiders’ are widely spaced throughout the field. Self buttons of cloth covering a bone [?] disc, trimmed to match. The back has 3 pairs of PW linen tape ties. Beneath the proper left armscye on the inside, the name “Biddle” is inked."