Fine red wool, twill, integral, multicolor side and end borders. 3 rows of buti each facing same direction. Shades of soft red with pink, sky blue, green, coral. About 13” x 88”"

Fine cream silk warp, fine cream wool weft alternated (?) with fine cotton weft; 1/3 twill. Patterns wefts fine Z singles wool in 8 colors: bright yellow, brown-burgundy, rose-red, coral, pink, navy-black, pale aqua, olive. Pattern wefts also 1/3 but staggered to appear like a basket weave. (see black one below.) Cream colored ground. Clipped back. Added wool fringe (hard to tell for sure) 8 pines reversed in center, no interior border. Corner pines. Filler detail between pines leaving narrow light margins.50” w x 50.25” l."

Fine cotton warp and wool weft in twill weave. Selvages and narrow hems with running stitches. Cream ground with semi-circles and fronds along narrow scrolled border with alternating red and green bands along hem; matching yarn fringe attached at half inc

Fine cream colored wool Z singles weft on cotton/silk Z singles warp; 2/2 twill. 5 brocaded pines in rectangular border at each end, with roses at bases and twiggy background. Additional border of smaller pines outside rectangle. Pattern: red wool; dk turquoise, lt turquoise, olive, ochre cotton.* Added border (turquoise/gold on edges). Added fringe border on ends. 27” w x 10’

Grey celadon green crepe shawl, woven as plain weave with loosely spun Z singles warp, with tighter-spun weft as shown: ZZSS (repeated).* 1/16” hem with matching 2 ply silk large running stitches. same silk forming 12” fringe with 2” of knotting with large and small holes. Fringe attached directly to hem. (Selvages not hemmed)

Fine black twill ground; wool with brocaded edges along side borders. Long simple curved butas in facing pairs, with graceful tips, outlined with scalloped blue borders; some fringe with knots still remaining. 5’ x 10’ approximately.

Ivory silk crepe woven as plain weave with loose Z twist warp, and weft with tight Z and S twist in alternation. Knotted silk Z2S fringe*. Lavishly and densely embroidered narrow floral border with larger square floral motifs in opposite corners, one featuring a peony or rose, the other a passionflower. Selvages; narrow hem with running stitch. 6 rows of knots (1”), 7” fringe over all. 55” x 56”

Silk brocade crepe shawl with loosely spun Z singles warp with very tightly spun weft alternated as shown: ZZSS.* Loose grape border design with scattered fragments in field. Rich taffy color fine 2 ply 4” fringe. 51.5” square.

vory silk plain weave, loosely spun s singles. Ivory silk satin stitch embroidery, narrow border of buds, bouquet in opposite corners, center area generously filled even to other corners. Two rows of knots on with side of row of larger holes. Inked tag sewn in corner:”4094 special [?] wed [?]. 35” x 36” 8” fringe.

Ivory silk plain weave with loosely spun warp singles and tightly spun weft singles alternating as shown: ZS. Matching Z2s silk fringe on selveges and narrow hems, double strands.* Single narrow scrolled floral border. Floral bouquets in opposite corners, all satin stitched. Peonies, forgetmenots (?). Dense embroidery.6 rows knots, 8” +/- fringe length.

Black, fine, shiny mohair (?). “Chantilly” design somewhat geometric border. Delicate floral bouquets. Pusher with handrun double liner thread, hand sewn picots. Asymmetrical motifs, 4- quarter symmetry. Clean, light, crisp hand. 74” square.

Triangular shawl of Chantilly lace, black springy lustrous silk, both reseau (2S) and cordonnet.* Triangular. Pillars and scrolls, floral bouquets. Long edge is attached separately? Handmade; integral gimp and clear thread course. 66” x 45”

Pusher lace; black, shiny, scratchy thread. Hand run gimp. Hand attached picot edging. Design of scrolly arabesques, morning glories and ferns with cartouches, little florets, bows. Chantilly type. 118” wide by 56” deep.

Pusher lace, black triangular stole. Fiber is crinkly, probably wool. Hand run mohair cordonnet. Applied mohair picots. Radial sprays of flowers, wisteria-like strands along upper edge. Lyre-shaped medallion in point; leaves and roses in border. 76” x 76” x 124

Twilled fine black wool. Attached 10” deep repeat paisley motif border all around, arranged so that when folded as a trinagle, the borders are all right side out. 65” square. Mitered at the corners. Wool pattern wefts: olive, red, turquoise, black; yellow silk. Clipped floats. Satin warp stripes.

Fine twill wool, lt celadon grey (once pale turquoise?) Elaborate curvilinear paisleys, 4-corners. Silk warp dyed at ends, finished with strips of tapestry-joined colored gates. Plain selvages. Cotton pattern wefts: brown, orange, buff, red, tan. Wool: mauve, olive, grey, turquoise. Remains of PLIED 2” fringe. Clipped weft floats. 67” square.

Triangular shawl of creamy white wiry fiber- mohair? Pusher lace with handrun liner and hand sewn (?) picot edging. Dense floral swag in the center, medallion border. 108” long side and 55” CB, 78” short side. Crisp, clean hand and appearance.

Black shiny hairy fiber (mohair?); pusher with hand run liner, hand sewn picot edging. Romantic, feathery leaves draped around rings and border. Morning glories form a center spray. Darker appearance. Symmetrical motifs. Also bilateral symmetry. Triangular, 100” long edge, 70” short edge, 45” long CB.

Very fine ivory silk s2z warp; fine pale beige wool singles [?] weft. Supplementary warp of brown, orange, red, olive and black. Twill weave. 60” long by 62.5” wide. Selvages include peach, white and brown silk supplementary warp threads for 1/2” border. Weft borders are 1” bands of wool. The rest is a pale field filled with approximately 1” vaguely cone-shaped supplementary weft motifs distributed at 2” intervals in apposite staggered rows. Feels like mohair, not wool,

Very pale green silk plain weave with tiny brocade sprigs over field. Each end has border of 3 large sprigs of gooseberries (?) with ferny leaves. 4” fringe of fine silk threads attached with one row of knotting. Body 20” x 58”

Hand knit, very fragile shawl made from aloe fibers. Black-brown and ivory strips joined to produce double border of ivory on dark ground, forming checks at corner crossings. Mostly diamond pattern; shell pattern in outer border. About 70” long and possibly about square. Originally folded neatly into a very small shape wrapped in brown paper with the “knitting satchel

Shawl, twill tapestry patchwork of cashmere. Pieced, embroidered gates. Large, sprawling baroque ‘butas’ converging in center of small black field with arms.74” square. Excellent quality of embroidery, and the pieces lie fairly flat.Cloth label attached to one corner with inked inscription: B8 6738 St.

Shawl, all densely embroidered. Embroidered gates of jade green, golden yellow, black and red twilled cashmere MID; field is made of large ‘patches’ of red twilled cashmere MID; all with sky blue, black, cream appliques. Large, sprawling baroque ‘butas’ converging in center of small black field with arms.70” square. Coarser quality of embroidery

Huge shawl made of hand spun, hand woven, exquisite ivory-colored cashmere.* Yarns and fibers are very fine. Sheer, gossamer, creamy soft, warm. Woven in barely perceptible narrow herringbone weave, with 1/4” silk selvages also in herringbone weave. Yellow silk cartouche embroidered in one corner, presumably some sort of signature. Very delicate self fringes, self-clumped, about 4” long. About 5.6 feet wide by 22 feet long - woven in one width.

Machine woven ivory wool, a sort of gauze (plain weave) or coarse challis weave with widely spaced ivory silk cross stripes. Edges have deep printed paisleyesque border in shades of plum and ultramarine blue. Crimped self fringe.About 5.6’ wide x 21.3’ long.

Shawl made of sheer silk woven as a maroon, red, white, soft yellow and blue plaid with checker opaque and satin weave borders and cross stripes. Attached knotted fringe of silk thread whose colors match the stripes where they are attached. Approx. 64” square."

Shawl, dark blue twilled silk with brocade border of flowering branches — pre-buta-like — on a red ground on 2 adjoining sides, the other sides having only a pair of narrow red/yellow checked stripes. Because the brocade is worked warpwise at the sides, it appears less colorful than the bottom border which was brocaded in the weft.52” square.

Shawl made of true crepe (crape) silk, ivory colored. Edged on 4 sides with ivory netted silk fringe, 4 rows of mesh. Simple scrolly embroidered border with inner one of leafy motifs, and 4 corner bouqets, executed in ivory silk satin stitch. About 51” x 54 This appears to be a genuinely Chinese product compared to the others in the collection

Wool machine woven square (about 6’) Paisley-type shawl with red, blue, green and black gates at two ends. Black field nearly non-existant. Large abstract butas with scalloped black borders in each corner, wavy liny works through gates. No marks. Fringe. Unclipped floats. Red gates are particularly brilliant.Colors: red, orange, sky blue, yellow-green, black, white.

Very large rectangular shawl machine woven of wool or wool and cotton, with large, open black field. 10 narrow butas facing away from center form end borders. Secondary border around 4 sides. Butas in gallery and inner border. Pattern wefts appear to be all wool: Sky blue, green, gold, black, white and red. Clipped floats. Self black fringe. No gates. 64” x 136” ± (5.5’ x 11.5’ ±)

Red ground square foldover machine made shawl with narrow borders containing simple butas, second border of alternating orange, green and red gates. Borders applied to field, mitered at corners and set so when folded diagonally, the shawl exhibits only the good side.

Long, wide rectangular shawl, machine woven. Deep end borders with pairs of fairly staid facing butas above odd geometric band which is also woven along selvedges, extending and knotted a little past the shawl end which has only short, thin warp fringe, no harlequin colors. (once longer?) Small butas and anthemia [?] spaced inside lengthwise border. Black field, very thin, all fine [merino?] wool or silk. Colors are red, gold, pale blue, green,white.About 5” wide by 10’ long.

Fine ivory barege shawl, square with attached, simply knotted silk thread fringe. Widely spaced silk brocade stripes each direction. Printed borderbands mostly in red and green, ornamented with small butas.about 60” square

Fine ‘cashmere’ - cream colored silk and wool twill - square block printed with looping, tipped buta patterns in bright blue, red, pink, orange, black and apple green. Icicle-like shapes projecting into spacious empty field. Added silk fringe knotted onto hem on all four sides, and then grouped by knotting. Beautiful colors and printing, fine fabric.

Square turnover shawl with 2 narrow and wider twill tapestry woven borders and embroidered fringe gates, a row of embroidered leafy sprigs upon the field along the border, and an embroidered ‘signature.’ Field is an uncommon robin’s egg blue cashmere (MID - fairly sure + it feels like cashmere!) in twill weave. The embroidery is nicely executed.

Ivory PW silk square, 36”. Embroidered with ivory silk twist in satin stitch, narrow stylized floral border, inner border of thorny branches, daisies, roses and morning glories [?], with bouquet in opposite corners of bell flowers [?] , ladyslippers [?], hops [?] and a large carnation [?]; the field embroidered all over with airy branches with tiny leaves and florets arranged in an arbor-like frame with 8 petal-shaped radiating lobes. Trimmed with 8 rows of silk thread net with self tassels. This is surely a Scottish production... no thistles

Machine woven paisley type shawl in pale blue, olive, red, orange, black and white; black center. Gates on separately colored warps. Large, streamlined swirling design symmetrical 4 ways

Fine black twilled wool center. Main twill tapestry border composed of black ‘patches’ forming reversed arabesque pairs, inset on ground of small butas in red, pink, blue, gold, green, white and black. Inner border of reversed scroll pairs formed from green, white, blue or red twilled wool, inset into black field, then embroidered carefully in the 7 colors to form larger, elaborate design on black field. Outer border made of separate wide and narrow “gates” of red, pink, green, blue, gold, white and black, embroidered in all colors with mini ‘flower [?] of life.’ 3/4” fringes all around.Very well-executed.

Block printed wool having silk satin faced stripes lengthwise, about 12” apart. Black blotch ground. Ends have deep border of butas alternated with willow-treelike motifs; related borders. 1” fringe, thin. Seven colors. Well printed. About 5’2” by 10’.

60” square - fine wool printed with red, black, blue, golden yellow, and two shades of chrome green. Large scrolling paisley motifs, pretend ‘gates.’

Damask woven ecru silk, angular scrolls not distinctively Chinese. Thin silk fringe even on selvage, apparently teased out or left out at intervals during weaving. Block printed with stylized cartouche surrounded with carnations, dogwood and scrolls, in lavender, pink, red, olive and brownish black, and what appears to have been buff or peach. Border of cartoonlike floral and abstract elements on a lavender ground. About 44” square

Square Paisly-type shawl having a thin black field with narrow outer border, deeper border of 7 butas per side, each facing the same direction, and four corner butas which are reversed. Appears to be a black silk warp with black wool weft in the field, but the color cast of the silk gives the appearance of being shot red/black. Twill-woven au lance with black, red, green, yellow-orange, lavender-gray and white wool in weft stripes (that blur together a little from a distance). Remains of applied wool fringe on two sides.The wefts, which are pretty scratchy, appear to be bigger and loftier than most, and to have been woven individually but in pairs somehow. The weave appears to be a variety of basket weave, all of which intensifies the weft stripe effect

Paisley-type shawl, twill woven. Ivory field within quasi-architectural border of compartments containing bouquets in compotes, and mandala-like designs. Square design in the center surrounded by 8 minor motifs; small butas adjoining the inner border of flower spikes. 1/2” gates on the ends, tapestry-joined; the silk warp ends remain nearly in mint condition. Silk warp space-dyed to accommodate the variously colored compartments, and the gates. Weft colors are apple green and gold which appear to be silk, and bright red, black, lavender-gray and white which appear to be cotton or wool. Reverse is very well clipped. About 60” square.

Shawl, brown checked silk foulard, with hand tied netted brown silk fringe all around.About 62” x 64

Cream colored fine Z singles wool with black windowpane checks spaced 1” apart. 2/2 twill. Self plied 3.5” fringes at all 4 sides. 1 piece. 59” x 64”

Extremely finely spun 2 ply wool, one piece; black, grey, cream stripes; broken weft-face twill weave; knotted fringe on 4 sides; 56" x 55". Soft hand.

Fine ivory wool twill, machine woven shawl. Naturalistic bouquets of roses, tulips and hibiscus featured within in a remotely paisleyesque border, the same on sides and ends with appropriate proportions. Pattern is filled with swirling ferns. No separate end borders but a decorative suggestion of gates. Pattern colors predominantly orange, cool pink, brick red, olive, pale turquoise. Self fringe is fine, very kinky yarn

Hand crocheted shawl, made red Berlin wool in an openwork shell pattern. Shaped symmetrically to fit the body, roughly a crescent shape. Black wool forms a wide border band and the fringe is composed of alternating black and red tassels. A rare survivor, dated on basis of the red-with-black border design.

Hand finished cast (?) steel, clip point. Offset handles with inserted steel peg on side of finger hole;; large screw in center which appears useful for angling for a quick grasp, perhaps also adjusting for thicknesses of fabric. Marked Gebr.Weyersburg Solingen with an image of a horn. 10"

A large sheet with a very tidy inked design of a wreath of leaves. The name Lucinda Lincoln and No 6 are above that. There are several stains/ discolored spots. MAtches the pillowcase 2014.018.54

One large linen sheet in two sections with unfinished long edges. "Lucy Tolman. Sharon" is inked abouve two sprigs of leaves and No 125. 12 in underneath that. This matches the two pillowcases 2014.018.56 a,b

Handspun, handwoven Linen Z singles. 20 EPI x20 PPI Tiny hems and selvage-seam stitched with same linen. Initials LP cross stitched in golden-tan silk with "6" above and date below and 3 tiny diamonds in between. On center of on section seam whipped. 69"X90"

All linen Z singles. Bleached tow (?) Stitched W. Linen thread 2 pieces overcast seam, stitched in cross-stitch in golden tan z2s silk "E...P...1819" On upper right corner. Has seen a lot of careful use. 20PPI x 20 EPI 86X68"

A linen sheet with inked names and dates "J H McDowell. 10 1827. Anna M Osborne. McDowell. 1840"

40PPI x 39 EPI Linien Z singles narrow hem. Lot of float-sticky shed. Selvage problem. 2 ply threat for stitching linen? 2 3/4" panels x 88" long. Brown silk cross stitched RP 12 1826

2 36" pieces x 76" long. unbleached two linen. Fine hems stitched with same linen. Cross stitched M in fading red plied cotton near lower left hand corner.

A pair of handspun handwoven linen Z singles sheets. Linen a little tow-ey 18 EPIx20 PPI Tiny hems, overcast seams with linen thread. "PW 1830" cross stitched in red cotton in littel squares at lower left corner. 2 sections. 66X84

Cotton z singles wrap. Doubled at selveges. Wool singles, 2 sections narrow hems. Cotton stitching. Cryptic symbols stitched in red wool at one end. faded in one place.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's shirt made of thin white cotton. Collar of sturdy cotton and having a frilled edge, intended to lie open; the front neck edge is gathered into the front of the collar; sleeves end in hems not cuff; placket bottom is bound with tape; deep side vents with gussets of the heavier cotton.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's tunic made of green checked silk taffeta on the bias. Simple flared shape; wide scoop neckline; front placket. Short wide sleeves gathered into armscyes. Green silk covered buttons. Placket bordered with green brocade ribbon edging, a wider one used on neckline and sleeve edge.

Entirely hand-stitched shirt made of Dobbie figured cotton. Wide neckline. Piping and a shallow yoke with a printed band across the bottom. The band also forms a waistband, cuffs, and trim down the front opening of the skirt and along the top of the hem. The bodice is gathered fully onto yoke front and back with a full short skirt. Full sleeves have piped armscye. Six buttonholes with corresponding eyelets for removable buttons.

Shirt of white cotton with bishop sleeves, turnback cuffs, small collar, front frill. No fasteners. Buttons on waistband fit pants exactly. Cuffs, collar and front edged with machine embroidered trim.

Boy's shirt made of thin white cotton with dainty black polka dot print. Button placket down the front with frill on either side. Milk glass buttons. Long turnback frilled cuffs on narrow tubular sleeves. Wide frilled collar.

Exquisitely hand-stitched five infant shirts made of fine white linen infant pinafores. Flared shape. G90.138.1 - Flaps at neck and over short sleeves trimmed with white braid and Valenciennes lace frills. G90.138.2 - Scoop neck, curved sleeve end, and edged with Valenciennes lace frills. G90.138.3 - Scoop neck, curved sleeve end, and edged with Valenciennes lace frills. G90.138.4 - Scoop neck, curved sleeve end, and edged with Valenciennes lace frills. Self-frill edged with simple tatting. G90.138.5 - Scoop neck, curved sleeve end, and edged with Valenciennes lace frills. Woven frill-edged with narrow handmade lace.

Partly machine-stitched and hand-stitched little boy's shirt made of blue and white cotton fabric (blue warp with white cotton weft). The center front closure made of buttons with a hidden button placket. Most likely light blonde tagua buttons. All buttonholes are hand-stitched. The shirt is gathered slightly to the waistband. Sailor collar of self-material, with edges of the collar, the center front placket, and cuffs made from white cotton machine-embroidered scalloped-edged fabric. Unlined. Long sleeves have been extended at the wrist to lengthen the sleeves.

Entirely machine-stitched and factory-made men's shirt made of cotton. Bib-front with opening placket in the center back. Collarless and cuffless, but with buttonholes to attach both the collar and the cuffs. Suitable for formal daywear.

Infant shirt of super fine linen fabric. Cut as one piece, and folded over at shoulders, sewn together at side seams. Entirely hand-stitched. CF opening with short sleeves and wide scooping neckline. Neckline and edges of sleeves are trimmed with simply bobbin lace. Small hole under left underarm.

Entirely hand-stitched man's shirt made of fine cotton body with finer linen cuffs and neck. Modern buttons were added to cuffs but the neck had the original MOP button, carved. Underarm gussets, and side slit gussets. Sleeves are neatly gauged to cuffs and the top of the sleeve cap. The body of the shirt is neatly gauged to the collar, with inside shoulder reinforcements.

Entirely machine-stitched young man or boy's shirt made of cotton. Mass-produced, most likely from a department store. White cotton body and sleeves. Collarless and cuffless. Bib front with tabby at the center front waist to attach to the waistband of pants. Open slit on the center back. The inside bib is lined with a linen panel.

Child's frock (or perhaps a smock) in a pale pink cotton fabric. Deep-set waist on square bodice with wide scoop neckline. Neckline, waist seam, and armscyes have piping in self fabric. Long sleeves are full, and gathered at sleeve/shoulder cap and wrist. Cuff of self fabric, button at wrist. CB closure of buttons - all buttons missing. White woven tape sewn on in waves, almost but not quite like rick rack. Unlined. Entirely hand-sewn.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's shirt made of fine white cotton. High round neckline, with piping at neckline and shoulder seams. Long sleeves; cut slightly bent. Simple turn-and-turn hem at wrist. Bottom hem of shirt is either unfinished or simply whipped instead of hemmed. The center front opening with buttonholes on either side for removeable buttons / links. The body (front and back) is pleated with box pleats, sewn in place. Unlined.

Mostly machine-stitched little boy's frilled shirt with sailor collar made of fine white cotton and machine-embroidered scalloped-edge white cotton fabric. The shirt does not have a waistband - but does have a drawstring waist. The center front button closure has a hidden placket, underneath the center front panel of machine-embroidered white cotton fabric. Large square 'sailor' collar. Trimmed deeply with the same machine-embroidered fabric, along with the cuffs. Sleeves are long and straight, made from one piece, and extended at the wrist - the boy must have grown.

Entirely hand-stitched man’s shirt made of cotton. Printed with a pattern of light and medium gray honeycomb stripe alternating with a row of simple 'stacked' black outline buta or treelike figures. Square cut. Deep side vents without gussets, selvage to selvage width. Shallow back yoke. Very full sleeves gathered all around the top and sides, with skimpy, twisted underarm gusset. The sleeve gathered into a 2” band with a buttonhole and white China button at the base. The side back shoulder area is reinforced with white heavy cotton which also lines the yoke. The side fronts are faced with self-fabric, slightly gathered where the shoulder seam meats neck seam, but it is pulling away (no neck gusset). The bosom has wide pleats with coarse stitching across the bottom. 4 white China buttons. Cylinder printed

Mostly hand-stitched gentleman's shirt made of fine linen. The cuffs and shirt front panel are pleated. Small standing collar that lacks buttonholes in the center back for a collar attachment. Button closure on the stand of two MOP buttons, while the front pleated panel has three MOP buttons. Machined buttonholes. Cuffs have one MOP button and extend to the drumstick of the thumb. The body of the shirt is made of a fine unbleached cotton in plain weave. Made with underarm gussets, gussets at neckline opening, and shoulder / back yokes. Side slits.

Little boy's shirt made of white cotton. Bishop sleeves. Turnback cuffs. Small collar. Front frill. No fasteners. Buttons on the waistband fit pants exactly. Cuffs, collar, and front edged with machine embroidered trim. Photographed with a suit and hat that was acquired with the shirt.

Infant shirt of very fine linen fabric. Cut as two pieces, sewn together at side seams. Shoulder seams connected with rick-rack. Wide scoop neckline. Neckline, one edge of CF opening, and sleeve openings trimmed with machine-woven lace. Entirely hand-stitched.

Baby's shirt of yellowed white cotton, opening down back. Shirt sleeves cut in one with shirt front and backs; whiteworked strip inserted into seam at shoulders. Narrow bobbin lace runs around neckline and ends of sleeves. Hand-sewn.

Little boy's dropped-waist frock of blue and white cotton check fabric. Unlined. Entirely hand-stitched garment, with many spots that have been repaired and mended - worn by an activious little boy. Body of frock is cut on grain, as are skirt and sleeves. Waistband is cut on the bias and doubled over on inside. CB placket of buttons, milk glass round four-holes. High round neckline, with rounded collar sewn in place with rounded edges at CB. Pointed band cut on bias at wrist openings.

Entirely hand-stitched infant’s shirt made of linen. Frog-hair stitches. Cobweb-fine linen cuff ruffles with minute-drawn thread work. Top stitching on shoulder seams. Buttonholes on each side of the cuff band. Minute hems. Exquisite workmanship. Note attached, handwritten on lined, glazed notepaper in what appears to be mid 19th-century handwriting: “108 years old-- worn by 8 children” Note pinned on long ago (pin is getting rusty).

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of Gossamer linen. Very skilled tiny bobbin lace edging along the neck and sleeve edges. No shoulder seams but this garment does have side seams.

Partly hand-stitched with machine-stitching on most of the garment. Body gathered into waistband. High neck finished like lady’s dress, Bishop sleeves. Narrow cuffs. Piped armscyes. Seams are not overcast. Stud buttons were used. Buttonholes in the waistband. Nice cotton pique.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of heavy cotton. Tatted edging. Front and back flaps. Angled sleeves. No gussets.

Entirely hand-stitched shirt made of fine white linen. Rectangular format. Deep vents. Full sleeves gathered into armscye and deep cuffs. The collar stands with 2 pearl buttons, undoubtedly replacements. Neck, underarm and vent gussets. Rectangular shoulder reinforcement of slightly heavier linen covers the entire area between collar and armscye, to 1” below it. Inset bosom panel with one deep pleat on each side, opening inward; stayed with a strip of coarser linen at the base. Deep, fine lawn frill on each side of the opening. One button (missing) on each cuff near the wrist. The felled seam on one side, butted selvages on the other, turned outward. Magnificent topstitching on cuffs and neck gussets.

Entirely hand-stitched shirt made of heavy unbleached tow linen. Long, narrow topstitched bosom above a band above cartridge pleated fullness. 3 white China buttons. Wide sleeves with underarm gussets fitted into armscyes with small pleat at middle of front and back. Cartridge-pleated into cuffs with curved corners and centered buttonholes. Narrow turnover collar with stepped front made of sturdy white cotton. Tiny neck gussets towards back. Deep side vents. Wide shoulder reinforcement. Body cartridge pleated into collar at the center back. Tiny eyelet in left front shoulder worked with crocking red thread.

Entirely and beautifully hand-stitched boy's shirt made of white cotton with fine lawn frills. The front has a fine linen pleated bosom, heavily starched, with a narrow frill down the front. Tiny pearl buttons. Collar stand with white China buttons for the collar. Long sleeves gathered into narrow rounded cuffs with frills. Side seams are shaped to curve in at the waist a bit, according to the new style.

Entirely machine-stitched child’s shirt or blouse made of white cotton. Full sleeves gathered into narrow cuffs. Narrow standing collar. The body has pintucks on either side of the placket concealed by a band of machine embroidery. Gathered into the waistband with white glass shoe buttons having shank plates. Supposedly these shank plates are too late for this and inappropriate in this application.

Infant’s fine linen shirt, open all the way down the front. Exquisite workmanship. Round neckline with exquisitely stitched fine gauze frill, flat on front. Opening edges very finely backstitched. Shoulder seams are fagotted and hemstitched on either side. Underarm gussets; very full sleeves, narrow cuffs with minuscule backstitching. Two holes to receive cufflinks or ribbons. Someone carefully stitched both sides of a tiny cardboard label to the bottom, with an inked inscription “Shirt worn by Isaac Basset born Oct. 6, 1779”

ssets; the shoulder and armscye reinforcements (fine cotton?) are wide and, although pieced, installed as one layer. One side butted, the other a fine felled seam. Inked on proper left side above vent: “Jesse L. Mofs No. 9 April 7th 1838”.

Mostly machine stitched man’s shirt made of cotton. Gussets above vents and edges of shoulder reinforcements at the armscyes, one butted side seam, one butted seam on each underarm gusset, and the buttonholes are all hand-stitched. Made from traditional square modules including underarm gussets. Square tails with narrow hems beautifully machine-stitched to the outside. Short collar stand, deep linen cuff with buttonhole near base. Moderately full sleeves gathered onto body. Full width shoulder reinforcements with triangular neck reinforcements. Neck placket. Two pearl buttons on collar, side by side. One pearl button on each cuff.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of sturdy cotton. Drawstring in the neckline. Medium-length sleeves with gussets. Gathers at sleeve tops. Shoulder seams and no side seams.

Entirely hand-stitched fine linen infant shirts. Infant Shirt (2) - sleeves with slight gathers at the tops; gussets, one flap. Edged with narrow lace. Infant Shirt (3) - neither sleeves nor flaps are joined at the shoulder with fine fagotting. Edged with coarse handmade linen torchon lace. 1/2” hems all around except on armholes. Infant Shirt (4) - flaps but no sleeves, joined at shoulder with fagotting, edged with lace frill. 1/2” hems all around except on armholes.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of sturdy white cotton. Gussets under the arms. Hand-embroidered sleeve ends. Gathered at the top of the shoulder sleeves. Large pleat in the back.

Entirely hand-stitched riding shirt made of cotton. Long, slightly full sleeves with long cuffs to be buttoned only at the base. Hand-embroidered broderie anglaise on standing-frill collar and cuffs. Yoked front and back, with generous gathers in the body in the back and beneath the simple bosom front setting a high waistline. Placket in bosom closes near top with 2 China buttons.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of cotton. Lace trim on the front and back flaps. Insertion on the flap that folds over the top of the shoulder and buttons to the short. Gathered sleeve with a pearl button.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of sturdy cotton. Basic design like a man’s shirt. Underarm gusset and shoulder 'strap'. Short, wide sleeves.

Entirely machine-stitched infant shirt made of heavy white cotton. Very wide neckline. Neck and sleeve edges trimmed with machine-made eyelet edging. Front opening. Short straight sleeves cut with body; no underarm gussets.

Entirely hand-stitched shirt made of cotton with linen bosom; 1.5” pleats down the front. 1.5” collar. 2.5” cuffs with white glass buttons at the base. Underarm gussets. Small gussets at the side vents, and one at the back neck. Wide reinforcements at the front and back shoulders. Square bottom.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of linen. Scoop neck. 1-pc gusset sleeves with gathers on the top. Insertion in the shoulder made of Leno 'lace'. Lace edging on neckline and sleeves.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of linen. Scoop neckline. No gusset. Fine cambric frill forms sleeves. Shoulder insertion made of a strip of Leno / chain-stitch sprig.

Entirely hand-stitched infant shirt made of linen. Flaps have rounded corners. Gussets with 'sleeves' are made of 1.25” real lace. Insertion made of similar lace on shoulders and similar tiny edging on flaps.