Cloak of wool or mohair camlet in red/orange, green, yellow, black, and white tartan. Turn-down collar and capelet attach to neckline of yoke, to which body of cloak is gathered. Collar, capelet, and yoke are lined in green wool; body of cloak is mostly lined in black wool, with a large patch of rougher light green wool. Fastens at neck with two hooks and eyes. Slits for arms cut in at each side and bound with tartan.

Short cloak of a light yellow wool or cashmere, wadded, and lined with off-white silk taffeta. Pointed decorative hood hangs down behind, giving the impression of a collar in front. Neck edge is trimmed with long pink silk cord, which hangs free in front and ends in pairs of silk-covered beads and pink and white silk and mohair tassels. Matching silk braid binds edges of talma and hood. Two beads and another tassel hang from center of hood opening.

Small child's homemade ensemble consisting of two pieces in scarlet red wool: 1. 2025.11.001 Infant frock of red scarlet wool lined with brown glazed cotton fabric. Outer and inner wool panels are sewn together at same time, with machine and hand-finishing. Short-sleeves self-lined in red wool. Piping at neckline and armscye. carved MOP shank buttons down back, with buttoning side switching at waist. Cotton cream soutache braiding of grape and vine motif, across sleeves, neckline, and above hem. Staining throughout the frock, with some piping coming loose at neckline. 2. 2025.11.001 Infant hooded cloak of same crimson red wool fabric, lined with wool flannel in a cream color. Machine and hand-finishing. Wool outer and flannel inner sewn separately, then attached to one another. Some piecing in red wool fabric. Cotton cream soutache braiding across hood, down CF, and across back hem. Same grape-leaf and vine design as frock. Staining and holes throughout and wear at collar neckline opening. 3. 2025.11.003a-d Four photographs of the ensemble being worn by four different generations of boys: a - cabinet card of Jenna (2-28-1870) and Charles Wagner with Charles wearing the frock (4-6-1872). b - Cyanotype print on a postcard of little boy wearing frock with white shirt or chemise underneath and little boots. He stands at the top of the steps of a porch. On the front is written, "Thayer with a dress on his Dad's - a little red one. easter Sunday. Born 3-22-1908." c - Small photograph in black and white of another little boy wearing the frock with strapped shoes and socks on. In the sun, this time standing on the walkway in front of the same porch as the earlier image. ON the back is written, "Don't you love the expression?! Charles Ackerson in grandfather Wagner's dress. Born 4-16-1947." d - Late 20th-century printed photograph in color of a small child (girl) wearing the hooded cloak and dress inside of a home. On the back is written, "Samantha Ackerson in great-grandfather Wagner's dress and cape. About 1991? Born 10-16-1989."

Pair of child's clogs of rigid black leather. Shoes fasten with straps around ankle which button at front; collar below straps is narrow and ends in an upward curve over the instep. Wholecut, with back seam. Wooden sole, painted black under arch, reinforced with nailed-on iron bands around heel and front. Leather is held to sole with small brass tacks around entire edge. Square toe, curved up.

Folded length of brown glazed cambric (dress lining fabric), about 25” wide, retaining. Penciled on that is a crossed-out Z= above a line above “6[cents]” and a squiggle 72 and 2 squiggle next to the printed “yds.” Pinned to the fabric is a paper note reading “31 1/2 yds” but there are only perhaps a few yards left.

linen fabric

Large piece of reporduction fabric

Clout made from diaper cloth with folded edges and inked name (Marcia E. Allen) in corner

Hand-stitched, and home-sewn child or toddler's winter coat made of mohair. 6 large MOP carved buttons down the center front. Double-breasted. Left-hand side closure. Turn-down collar. Coat sleeves are slightly bent. Lined with plain-weave cotton.

Coat of silk velvet, printed with patterned vertical and diagonal patterned stripes on a dark blue ground, interlined thinly, faced with purple silk taffeta, and lined with light brown glazed cotton. Jewel neckline, which holds an arm-length cloak edged with brown silk fringed trim. Body of coat is unshaped except for flare outward; long, straight sleeves. Fastens with hooks and thread eyes down front.

Entirely hand-stitched boy's coat made of brown mohair - camlet. High collar faced with brown-black velveteen. Cuffs faced with silk velvet once black, shifting to brown. Double breasted with a single row of black satin slightly domed buttons collarbone to waist. No waist, center back or side seam, just back. No pleats; vertical scalloped flaps at waist in back. Deep back vent. Ankle length. Lined with bottle green homespun.

Homemade child’s coat made of gray mohair plush 'bear skin'. Lined with soft white cotton sateen. Sleeves are a little wide at the top, set well up on the shoulder, and come straight to the wrist with no cuff. Standard pointed turnover collar. No pockets. Single-breasted opening that barely meets. 3 large rough pearl buttons closure with white braid loops with hook and eye at the top. Speculated to be a boy's coat.

Entirely hand stitched girl’s coat made of white waled pique cotton. Fitted at waist with princess front and waisted back. Wide flaring skirt with pleats in back, scalloped hem. Short standing lace-trimmed collar, bishop sleeves with scalloped hems. Thick white braid arranged in large foliate and scroll pattern along skirt and front edges. Domed white net covered buttons to waist. Unlined.

Girl’s coat-dress or coat made of coarsely crocheted soft, bright red wool, with red, darker red, and burgundy stripes in ‘skirt’ and the edges done in mahogany brown. Standing frilly collar of the three reds in rows, with tasseled self drawstring. Long body with dropped waist and rather close fitted skirt shaped to accommodate a bit of bustle. Long tubular sleeves with striped ‘cuffs’.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s winter coat made of white mohair plush 'bear skin'. Double-breasted. Fairly narrow body and sleeves, suggesting a later date. The lining is good-quality cotton sateen, hand-stitched into place. Slight fullness at the top of sleeves, and turnback cuffs backed with sateen. Turn-down pointed collar. Four MOP fisheye buttons on the outside, and two more on the inside. Heavy cotton braid strip with looped ends secures the inner and outer buttons. The top inside button is a bit smaller because the braid loop turned out a bit too small for the selected buttons.

Doll's coat of ribbed off-white cotton, trimmed with black silk velvet ribbon. Deep turn-down collar with corners in front, with ribbon applied around perimeter. Long sleeves with cuffs at wrists, similarly trimmed with ribbon. Opens down front, with three mother of pearl buttons. Appears to fit 2026.16.014.1a.

Entirely machine-stitched lady's mid-1890s winter coat made of black wool in a heavy weave pattern. Large puffed sleeve caps with a tiny waist and a large skirt. Cut full with faux pleats and tails in the back. High turn-down collar made of wool, faced in black silk taffeta. Interior seams are finished in the same black taffeta. Three-button front side closure. Buttonholes appear to be hand-worked several times.

Coat made of velvet. Heavy, black machine-made embroidered appliques down the front, around the hem, and at the wrists. An additional, more elaborate applique with knotted, beaded fringe adorns the shoulders and the back of the jacket. It is lined with quilted black silk and fastens down the front with black, fabric-covered buttons. The back hem flares out to fit over the dresses of the period. The collar is short and stands up. The sleeves are slightly wider at the upper arm and elbow, with a narrow wrist.

Coat made of black velvet. Fastens down the front with hook / eye closures. The plain neckline is accented with a short black lace, while the wrists are embellished with a wide black lace, braid, and ribbon. There is a band of piping at the seam of the body and the sleeve. The coat is lined in quilted black silk.

Lady's coat made of long pinstripe black wool. Lined with black satin. Black satin collar detailing with three wool covered buttons on both lapels. Sleeves are cuffed. Underarm liners in black satin. Back of coat split into three sections with brocade detailing.

Three quarter length evening coat, cut rather full and straight from shoulders, of cream net over pale gray chiffon, and cream taffeta lining. Back and front panels cut over shoulders to form wide yoke of fine cream cloth. Below elbow sleeves finished with wide cuff of cloth. The whole garment is elaborately embroidered in heavy silk and cotton thread in wild rose design. Front opening, neckline, and cuffs edged with gray velvet piping. Lining front edged with lace and chiffon ruching

Coat of black silk taffeta with very wide lapels; fastens down front with three large, self-fabric buttons. Lapel forms point at center back, where it is accentuated with a black silk tassel, and is embellished with a border of couched black soutache braid. Long sleeves with curved cuffs, also decorated with soutache. Machine sewn.

Automobile lady's coat made of slubbed champagne silk fabric with the slubs moving horizontally. Applique at cuffs, around the collar and down center front opening, and across the shoulder to chest and back. Open-set slit opening, with six mother-of-pearl buttons. Hook and eye closure at the neck opening. Pocket slit on right-hand side - job pocket to access pocket of skirt beneath. Small puffs at the sleeve cap. Unlined.

Entirely machine-stitched gentleman's long automobile coat made of linen. Fabric-covered buttons of self-fabric. Two-piece buttons with fabric pressed. 4 buttons in total. Notched lapels are shallow. Sleeves are long two-piece sleeves. Front of the coat has four pockets - two large pockets at hip height, one upper pocket that is a bit smaller than the larger pockets on the left breast, and the smallest pocket is on the right, lower breast.

Entirely hand-stitched frock coat made of fine black broadcloth. Double-breasted. Very wide notched lapels. Skirt and side back lined with greenish wool or mohair brocade. Side front too. Padded front and sides. No pockets except for 2 hidden in the back vent. Cut velvet-covered buttons. Sleeve vents with 3 small satin-covered buttons. Skirt bottom edges cut. Short skirt gathered into waist seam at side back. Low waist seam that comes to a point in the back, underarm seam.

Entirely hand-stitched frock coat made of linen. Unlined. Unstructured. Welt pocket on the left breast and right waist. Medium-length skirt. Back vent. White China buttons. Smallish notched collar. Side back pieces. Vented cuffs. Natural waist. Single-breasted.

Entirely hand-stitched boy’s frock coat made of fine white ribbed cotton. Wide round collar. Skirt gathered onto the yoke. Sleeves full with fullness stitched down at top and wrist. Front opening. One hook. Drawstring waist. Two tucks around the skirt, one removed recently, one much earlier. Lace edging on collar and cuffs.

Entirely hand-stitched frock coat made of light blue pineapple cloth or pina with ivory and darker blue cross stripes. Top-stitching in rather large running stitches with brown cotton thread. Unlined. Edges piped with fabric (striated brown / black cotton satin) used for buttons. Waist seam, underarm dart curved for long-waisted fit, side back seams. Rather wide sleeves with deep turn-back cuff. Rather high standing collar and revers. Medium-length, close-fitting skirts. Pocket in the proper left tail. Angled breast pocket with welt. 3 buttons in front, 2 on tails, covered with irregularly striated buff wool or mohair. The top button anchors a little extension tab with a button.

Entirely hand-stitched boy’s frock coat. Made of cotton printed with op-art cube effect in brown and tan it has that look of having been pink or lavender once, but maybe not. Unlined. Waist seam, no side seam or dart, side back and center back seams only. Medium-length, flaring skirts with pleats and box pleats in the center back but no tails, per se. Wide pocket flap in the waist on each side, no pockets anywhere. Sleeves have modest fullness on top and gentle taper to the wrist that has a slit. The collar is almost a band but folds back with the front edge of the body to form a near-shawl effect, the front has two self-buttons at the waist. The seams are not overcast but the two side seams of the skirt are a version of a French seam, one allowance folded over the other and whipped neatly down, leaving the allowances free of the surface. This would seem to serve the additional purpose of a light stay or vane to give form to the skirt. The skirt is longer at the sides where the grain goes on the bias; it appears that the piece was a bit shy of the goods at the center back.

Entirely hand-stitched small boy’s frock coat made of dark green camblet. Opens down the front with a concealed hook closure to the waist. Full circular skirt splits into tails in the back with false pocket flaps. Pocket flaps along the waist. Long sleeves with fairly large fullness gathered into the armscyes, pointed pieces forming a turned-back cuff effect. Skirt lined with brown cotton. Body with a brown frill. High round neckline bound with black silk-like button fabric. No side body seams. Fairly high normal waist. Skirt to knees. Small ‘buttons’ straight up the front and in a diagonal line toward each shoulder; on each tail flap and cuff, they seem to have been made of unstiffened circles of soft black silk satin--applied like buttons. There does not seem to have been a belt worn with it. There are ‘buttons’ at the waist level.

Partly machine-stitched and hand-finished. Machine topstitching on all edges. Straight cut. Knee-length coat made of brown wool on cotton warp, napped. The center back and side back seams. Narrow collar and short lapel, single-breasted with 4 thin disk buttons covered with black fabric, between waist and throat. No waist. Full skirts in front but tails and waist seam in back, 2 more buttons at the center back waist. Welt pocket in front at each hip. Another angled one on the left front body, brown lining cambric pocket bags. Very wide 2-piece ‘coat’ (lobster-claw) sleeves lined with coarse white lining cambric. Body lined with black twilled Italian quilted over batting around the sides and front.

Midnight blue wool frock coat double-breasted with a cut waist. Sleeves are long and slightly bent. Ten buttons are present on the front, with four on the back of the jacket. The jacket is lined in a twill weave wool lining fabric. Padding in chest breast panels and chest lining have machined pad-stitching in diagonals. Two breast inner pockets - one vertical and one horizontal at waist height. Sleeves are lined in a white and purple striped twill weave cotton. No cuffs or buttons or slits at wrists. Machined buttonholes. Standing collar has black silk velvet on the upper collar. Back tail pockets are false, but interior tails do have real pockets on either side of the inner tails. Slit up back. Sport goldwork shoulder boards (NOT epaulettes) - US Union Infantry, 1st Lieutenant Rank with one bar.

Gentleman's summer jacket of striped silk and cotton blend - black and white. Seersucker effect, but not true seersucker. Notched collar and self-covered buttons closure down CF, deep tail pockets, unlined. Cut waist seam. Some spots of stains and discoloration throughout.

Men's frock coat made of navy wool. Double-breasted. Wide lapels and collar. 6 gold buttons on jacket chest. 3 gold buttons on each sleeve. 2015.05.2 is a matching waistcoat.

"Child’s box coat, entirely hand stitched dark brown heavily-fulled broadcloth or kersey. Slender sleeves with deep, permanently turned-up cuffs; heavily pad-stitched turnover collar above a wide cape cut straight across the front, with faux second cape. Single breasted, no waist seam; side seam is toward the back; straight, angled pocket flaps in back, no pockets. Body is cut rather full in back with a deep slit at center back hem; self belt tacked at side seam, joined with button and buttonhole in center back; extends around front where two buttons allow an adjustable fit. Buttons are probably wood, fairly thin dome covered with black silk; one on each side of belt and each end of flaps. Sleeves lined with cotton; upper back with greenish camlet [?]. Blue/black checked wool facing on front opening.When buttoned, the belt pulls the back fullness tightly to the body with a degree of awkwardness because the cloth is so stiff. The resulting silhouette is slender with gathered fullness in back. "

Child or infant's coat. Fawn-colored cotton outer fabric, with natural blonde glazed cotton lining. Entirely hand-stitched. Long sleeves, straight, set in to back of coat rather than sleeve cap. Long body of coat is set into a shoulder yoke, with deep knife pleats across front and back. Collar has been either removed from coat by cutting, or never attached at all. Seam down CB of coat. No buttons, or hooks or eyes present for closure. Soutache braiding applied to sleeve ends of each sleeve, same pattern as capelet 2024.25.033. Both pieces look as through they were meant to be together (coat with capelet over top), but the cotton fabric are two different colors.

Men's morning or riding coat is speculated to be made of brown and white 2/2 twill S-twist singles, white warp, and brown weft which appears finer than the white so the white shows more and the twill is not steep. Very fine yarn with a curly disposition. Densely filled. Speculated to be made out of cashmere or merino wool. The uneven beat suggests hand weaving but the yarns are very even, fine, and lofty, well filled but not like broadcloth. Entirely hand-stitched. Double-breasted with medium wide notched lapels, collar, and revers covered to the button stand with quilted black silk Italian; front lapel and body padded lightly with brown cotton. 3 buttonholes of graded size on either side, but 5 buttons were sewn on each side. Opening designed to hang apart, in a flaring curved line to the side, then the skirt falls straight down the side front over the hip to the side of the leg at the knees, squared; the full skirt, on a slightly dropped waist, is a sort of hybrid of tails and frock skirt. 2 buttons in center back. Side pockets at the waistline with large flaps gathered on. Long narrow sleeves with 3-button plackets. Skirt front lined with dark brown cotton; no pockets in 'tails'. Sleeves lined with light brown cotton, and the back with brown cotton printed with tiny blue figures.

Entirely hand-stitched morning coat made of blue / white diamond twill checks cotton microscope identified. Stitched with linen thread. Double-breasted with fairly narrow high-standing collar and revers. 4 self buttons on each side. Round tails with self-buttons at each side. No underarm seam. Self-facing, no tail pockets. Relatively wide back. Long, narrow sleeves with slight fullness near the top. Deep faux cuff with two small self-buttons.

Entirely hand-stitched Naval captain’s morning coat made of kerseymere. Single-breasted. Heavy silver foliate 1.5” wide braid trim on standing collar, cuffs, and dummy pocket flaps. 2-piece gilt brass buttons (R. & W. Robinson Extra-Rich), with a design of an eagle astride a foul anchor, surrounded by 13 stars. 4 large ones on the cuff close together. 3 small ones along the cuff slit. 10 large ones 2” apart on the front opening and 4 along each rear pleat (1 at top and bottom, 2 in center). 1 small button on the collar at each side to secure epaulets (not present). 4 large buttons beneath each pocket flap. Side and dropped waist seams. Body back and sleeves lined with white silk, rest lined fully with thin white chamois. Heavily padded chest and collar. Slender sleeves. Sloped shoulder. Pockets inside. Rounded front edge and tails. If nothing else, the linings and the use of 4 Navy buttons on the cuff and pocket flap corroborate the captain’s rank, at least according to 1852 specs and earlier.

Entirely hand-stitched child’s sacque made of cotton velveteen. The fabric is printed with red-outlined yellow stars scattered on a dark brown ground. Very wide flaring shape suggesting that it is to be worn over a skirt supported by a hoop. Slight flaring long sleeves. High self-bound neck, secured with two self-covered buttons with the stars nicely centered joined by a cord loop. Wadded. The back and upper sleeves are lined with pink glazed cotton the rest is lined with blue checked silk; hand-quilted in squares.

Entirely hand-stitched sacque made of printed cotton velveteen. The print is red, pink (faded), and black checker pattern on a peach ground. Wide flaring shape, curved front edges, no fasteners. Long bell sleeves. All are lined with tan glazed cotton ‘cambric'. Double lace frill basted to bound neckline seems period.

Entirely hand-stitched men's Spencer jacket or coat made of ramie cloth. Long and narrow sleeves set fairly well up on the shoulder. Extended cuff with slit at the side (not noticeable on the displayed form). Medium collar with a roll, simple notch, and revers spreading wide over the chest. Single-breasted. 4 flat self-covered buttons on a stand, the top one lacking a corresponding buttonhole. The slight point at the center back hem. Welt pocket at each side. The backing being partly the front-facing and partly a square of white cotton.

Woman's instep length cape (automobile duster) of natural colored linen, buttoning up the front into high, round neckline, with narrow turnover collar; seamed for shoulder shaping, and cut to rather narrow hemline. Vertical slits on each side for arms, covered with wide, stitched bands of self material.

Fine white cotton collar with shaped edges, about 3" deep. Embroidered with wavy border of leaflets and 'chains' beside a row of strawberry-like hearts with leafy fronds at the top. Extremely finely worked satin stitch, eyelets, shadow stitch, and drawn thread work.

One 20” length and 2 more pieces about 16” long joined at sides to form - probably - a sleeve frill. Seems to be cotton (puzzling under microscope). Fond plain, heavy plied gimp, seems to be Bucks lace.Karen Augusta:Bucks bobbin lace has a fond simple reseau and toile designs executed in a naïve pattern. The toile has a raised cordonnet and often has distinctive honey comb fillings, as found in the upper blossoms edging these 3 pieces.

COLLAR, EMBROIDERED cotton Narrow band collar. Exquisite, fine hand embroidery and drawn thread work on organdy. Wide border of mesh with paired leaves; scattered leaves and small flowers in field. Many fine French knots.

COLLAR, EMBROIDERED cambric? 1860-1870 Fine linen lawn collar densely embroidered by HAND with rose clusters; little sprigs all over; shell-like border. Satin, French Knot, drawn work; 2.5” wide. Exquisite.

Collar, fine white linen entirely hand stitched; cut on bias in shallow arc on outer edge. Fagotting along the outer edge with attached frill with hemstitched hem.

COLLAR, AYRSHIRE, needlelace roundels 1850-1860 Entirely hand stitched, cotton on cotton Ayreshire with linen needlework lace inserted in roundels bordering the scalloped edge; cutwork near neck area. Scalloped edges; narrow fine cotton binding at neck; exquisite work. Has some careful mending with fine linen thread. An extravagant example.

COLLAR, COTTON WITH LACE EDGING 1845-1855 Round collar with pointed ends. Very fine linen, entirely hand stitched. 5” deep with 1/2” binding on neck edge. 1/8” hem with edging of 1/2” Swedish [?] lace (braided linen forming diamond shapes) and outer edges of machine [?] Valenciennes type-lace.

Extremely fine embroidery on sheer linen or cotton collar. Scalloped edges, sprays of what remind me of fireworks- round holes with cartwheels, dots, minute eyelet, fagotting, seed stitch. 1 1/4” wide, for smallish neck. No binding on neck edge for attachment to dress.

"Entirely hand stitched white cotton net, edged with narrow warp knit (?) lace with atttached picot edging (same as # 91.120). Large rose-and-leave motif embroidered around edge. Extremely narrow hem at neck. 15.5' across, 4.25” deep at center back. Possibly for a girl."

Entirely hand stitched fine white linen collar, crescent shape, with embroidered net insertion (early??) in CB. Edged with same warp knit (?) lace with attached picot edging as # 91.119. Very fine hem at neckline.

Hand embroidered sheer cotton collar. 1/2” neck binding. Scale like border with 2 sizes of maple leaf, bellflowers and forgetmenots. Padded satin, stem and dense seed [?] stitches. Exquisite.

Entirely hand stitched fine muslin- apparently cut from one end of full size pelerine. Chain stitch vine border, buttonholed vandyke edge. 18” across tip to tip; 5.5” deep at center. Seems like this could as well be used on a small girl.

COLLAR & CUFFS, EMBROIDERED, val lace medallions 1845 "Collar and cuffs, hand embroidered cotton satin stitch scrolls and florets surrounding open areas filled with Val lace. Dagged edges with fagotting and embroidered small scallops. About 1.5” wide.1) collar with pointed corners2) pair of matching cuffs GCM-6-09- CivWar - collar

Collar, broderie anglaise paisleys "Hand embroidered white cotton collar, large and small eyelet holes, paisley motifs with leaflets and florets in satin stitch. Scalloped edges. Neck binding. 4” deep. Seems to be earlier than 1850’s collars because it stands up on the neckline rather than lies flat on the shoulders....." "FORMER 91.158"

Collar, needle lace (Point de gaz?) Point de gaz? needle lace collar with simple ground, denser filling, buttonholed gimp. Densely packed florets and leaves with very simple fillings at centers and midveins. Delicate picots. 1 3/4” deep. (92.016 is a newspaper)

2 strips of fine, sheer muslin eyelet-embroidered with stylized floral motifs in padded satin stitch, edged all around with hemstitching. 2 ends joined to form one long strip, with attached 3/4” fine linen frill on both long edges, stopping short of each end by about 1.5”. 17” long.

Hand embroidered cotton machine made net. Curved form with wide scalloped edges. In each scallop is a simple flower and frond done in a shadow technique with what seems to be linen thread. Field has scattering of tiny florets.

Narrow white cotton collar with neck binding. Small scattered floral design and vine border, with eyelet accents. Scalloped edges.

Entirely hand stitched fine sheer muslin. Wide over shoulders. Embroidered with white cotton, satin and stem stitches in series of scrolly leaf clusters forming a border. 2” frill with embroidered vandyked edge and simple branch motifs perpendicular to hem, every 6” or so. Joined to collar with fagotting.

Entirely hand stitched sheer cotton, like organdy. Upper collar is smooth crescent form, lower is wide with a 2” frill all around; whole edged with lace, lower part extends into a tie at each front corner.

Medium width single layer round collar, spreads over shoulders. Sheer muslin, tamboured with white cotton; small floral motifs and double-vandykes forming leaf shapes.

Entirely hand stitched off white bobbinet, small round collar with wide slightly gathered frill all around. Appliqued embroidered border of white cotton satin stitch forming leafy bands around collar edge and 3 rows perpendicular to neck. Frill edged with tiny double scalloped border and stylized row of large pinks. Bound neckline.

Entirely hand stitched neck frill, fine white muslin with very narrow hems. No fasteners. Three rows of frills attached to narrow band.

White machine bobbinet embroidered with white cotton, forming 2 basic “fillings,” double-scalloped edge, each large section filled with pink-like flower with smaller leaflets above. Applied picot edging . High round neckline; about 5.5” deep. Quite exacting work.

Entirely hand stitched white cotton (?) collar, large fernlike plumed paisleyesque motifs on ground of large eyelets. Outer edge formed by base of paisley alternating with posies having eyelet center with needlelace fillings. Satin, buttonhole stitches.

Rather wiry ecru cotton hairpin lace formed into a peter-pan style collar; neck edge has robin’s egg blue silk satin ribbon threaded through beading; edges have self fringe. The ribbon looks late 19th century perhaps.

"Entirely hand stitched sheer muslin collar, cut straight across neck edge and having broad points along outer edge, not coming up or around to the neck edge. The pointed edge is finished with a narrow-hemmed, 1.5” wide self frill. The outer half is sprinkled with tiny embroidered eyelets and the inner half with embroidered dots. Centered in each point is a tiny eyelet floret.It appears to be intended to stand because the inner side has two parallel rows of narrow braid applied in zig-zag formation, and the center back a close pair of lines applied perpendicular to the edge, which would assist the collar to stand when starched."

Hand made standing ruff, from fine cotton with fine lawn neck band. Crescent shape edged with narrow lace and stroked onto the band, pressed with fine pleats. Heavily starched.

Fine white lawn collar, rectangular with deep lace-edged frill all around. Half-inch border of rows of hemstitching along collar edge and narrower one on frill edge.

Collar, ayreshire, narrow Narrow white cotton collar with Ayreshire-type embroidered patterns.

Entirely hand stitched fine white cambric collar with deep frilled edge. Crescent shape with frill whipped on outer edge, finished with narrow hand made lace. Narrow border of white satin stitch and eyelet vine.

Entirely hand stitched collar made of spotted muslin. Flat crescent shape, pointed in front. Edged with fine lawn frill.

Wide collar of very sheer white checked dimity. Double scalloped edges, buttonholed. Tamboured floral spray design, ferny leaves, french knots, drawn thread work in flower centers; bound neck edge.

Lady's detachable cotton collar or hand-woven lace. Separate motifs hand-stitched, set into bride network or matrix.

Collar made of dense white embroidery featuring a complex carnation-like flower, florets and leafy sprigs. Scalloped edges with a large eyelet in each scallop.

Collar of fine lawn with dense white embroidery featuring a seed head? and small florets and mossy strands.

"Hard to tell if these were a collar and one cuff, or what.. 1) crescent shaped scrap of dense white embroidery featuring a melon or ripe seed head with openwork.. 2) narrow band of dense white embroidery to match."

Fine white percale round pelerine with a small collar. Entirely hand stitched. The edges all round finished with vandykes made by cutting a double hem layer and folding it and stitiching perfectly with the tiniest stitches possible from a human hand....

Hand-stitched white cotton collar. Large fernlike plumed paisleys motifs on ground of large eyelets. Outer edge formed by base of paisley alternating with posies having eyelet center with needle lace fillings. Satin, buttonhole stitches.

Hand-stitched sheer white cotton collar (for V opening.) Pointed corners; narrow binding on neck edge; embroidered floral and vine motifs in white cotton with padded satin, stem, buttonhole stitches, with an speculated invisible chain stitch. Needle lace in open flower heads; narrow border of fagoting.

Collar of white or cream lace netting. Machined embroidered in bobbinet.

Collar if dense but delicate white embroidery on fine lawn, daisies and eyelet florets. A machine lace frill has been added to the outer edge, perhaps to update it to the taste of the 1850s.

Fragment of a collar with ferny-veined leaves spaced closely together. The outer edge has been cut off.

Collar of fine cambric heavily embroidered with white cotton in a pattern of large ferny-veined leaves alternated with ground of large eyelets. Wavy edge.

Hand-made lace applique garment that would frame the decolletage and shoulders, while also providing arm holes. Similar to a yoke or collar, but not quite. Lace appears to be handmade. Little circles of flowery lace, all stitched together to create a ground. Lace circles are arranged to form Van Dyke points across front, and arm holes.

Entirely hand stitched linen detachable collar. Linen band onto which two collar halves with rounded corners are mounted with the higher, rounded ‘corners’ facing one another. Twill tape ties at each end. 3 buttonholes

Machine embroidered collar with van dyke points around edge of collar. Embroidered floral spray across collar edge. Pleated netting nearest to neck.

Unfinished collar

Duchesse lace, cotton, handmade. Rose and leaf at outer edge, with small groups of florets with divided leaves and trailing tendrils here and there. Raised cordonnet; brides with picots. Fairly thin clothwork. Scalloped foot. Medium quality. 1) round collar with square ends, about 4 1/4” wide. 2ab) pair of cuffs, slightly flared. About 5” wide

Translucent yellow clarified horn comb with stamped design of double row of plumes interlocking in circular pattern; curvy edge on bridge, hand- cut curved teeth, very slight amount of darker coloring. Softly scalloped top edge. 8" x 6" high.

6-tooth horn comb with silvery plated metal bridge attached with 3 rivets; scalloped outline higher in the center; tooled outline and simple floral design. Teeth 2.5” long-- overall 4” x 4”

Clarified horn with painted spots, hand cut straight teeth, plain, high, deeply curved rectangular bridge. 5.25 high x 7.15 wide

Hand-cut, pierced and stained horn comb. Rather strident orangey-yellow tones with brown markings. Double-curved, high bean-shaped bridge, 7 double-curved sharp teeth. Design forms almost gothic arched panels filled with leafy tracery, topped with feather tip shapes. Teeth show joins of shell or horn pieces.

Clarified horn comb, slight striations. Hand cut. Smooth, high, deeply curved bridge. 21 sharp 3.5” teeth. 2.5” bridge. Overall width 4.5” straight across, 7.5” following curve.